Dior, in the name of the rose

“An autumn rose is more than another exquisite…”, wrote the poet Agrippa d’Aubigné. The walk in the garden of the Maison de Christian Dior, overlooking the sea, then the discovery of the exhibition inside this elegant building, plastered with… pink, cannot deny it. The mild Norman climate allows the rosebushes to bloom again, as if they were plotting a gentle conditioning to the discovery of “Dior in roses”, an event whose title explicitly announces the color.

An invitation to cross the doors of the designer’s aesthetic universe, the exhibition has two threads of the same purpose: the influence of the flower and the color pink on his work. Having his mother Madeleine’s passion for flowers, Christian Dior pays homage to them in his corolla skirts, the embroidery that magnifies the fabrics of his clothes and accessories, the fragrances that make his perfumes unique.

In love with the refinements of the 18th centurye century but also a great connoisseur of the art of his time, the one who was a gallery owner exhibiting Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Dufy or Braque before founding his own house, places roses in the hollow of a bodice, spiked on a belt , as we see on the paintings of Nattier.

From powdery to fuchsia

Dior himself, then the successive artistic directors of the prestigious label, vary the shade, from powdery pink to flamboyant fuchsia, through a whole range, here spring, fresh and mischievous, there breathtaking, even psychedelic. !

→ READ. Festival Via Aeterna, paradise lost by Christian Dior

Incredibly spectacular, a dress signed John Galliano deploys its disproportionate train: on the skirt, tight ruffles imitate the petals of an old rose placed on a carpet of flowers and foliage. Much wiser and more sober, ideal for the shy guest of some debutantes’ ball, an evening outfit designed by Marc Bohan celebrates the “Lovely color” dear to Christian Dior.

Catherine, the beloved sister

During the exhibition, we will also get to know Catherine, one of the creator’s sisters, to whom he dedicated his perfume. Miss Dior, but also an aerial dress worthy of a fairy tale, flagship of the spring-summer 1949 collection. A woman of heart and heart, resistant, deported at the end of the war but fortunately a survivor of horror, Catherine devoted herself to then to the cultivation of flowers, not far from Grasse, the southern kingdom of perfumers. In 1950, his brother bought a superb residence, La Colle Noire, very close to his home.

Dior, in the name of the rose

→ CRITICAL. Dior, renewing the heritage on France 5

Now in the hands of the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri, the artistic direction of the fashion house does not break with the floral tradition nor with the love of (the) rose. Evidenced by a dream dress (2020) whose embroidered tulle would delight a goddess of Botticelli, with its semi-corollas and undulating stems, deliciously messy. The timeless adornment of a garden woman …


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