A. López – Wednesday, December 4, 2019 – Updated at 06: 00h
BILBAO"With the guest work we want to surprise the public and also surprise ourselves." This is how Miguel Zugaza, director of the Museum of Fine Arts, defined yesterday the objective of the “disconcerting” and at the same time “beautiful” creation that will be part of the Bilbao art gallery until April 19.
Framed in the program of The invited work that the Bilbao Museum has been carrying out for 18 years, sponsored by The Banco Santander Foundation, the work of the collection Comme des Garçons of the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, is part of the signature autumn-winter 2016 collection pret-a-porter. The piece belongs to the collection of the Palais Galliera (Fashion Museum of Paris), a center that yesterday was represented by its director Miren Arzallus.
It is, as they explained yesterday, the first time in these 18 years that a fashion creation is presented, since in the previous editions mostly paintings have been shown, as well as sculptures or works on paper. In the same way, as Arzallus pointed out yesterday, it is the first time this work is presented. However, the Museum, although rarely, has had "few but notable precedents" in the samples Balenciaga The limit design and The 50s. Fashion in France 1947-1957, held in 2010 and 2015.
On the other hand, Maria Beguiristain, director of Art and Exhibitions of the Banco Santander Foundation, assured that the designer "on the one hand establishes a dialogue between the fashion of the silk fabric of the 18th century as well as the punk style of the XX" And is that Kawakubo "designs radical clothes with global awareness."
It is a creation of “a huge creator”, according to Arzallus, one of the most influential, a feminist avant-garde designer of what would be called the Japanese school that invades Paris in the 80s. Thus, the director of the Parisian Museum stressed that she presented his first collection in 1981. While at first he stood outside the fashion calendar in Paris, in the year 1982-1983 he was framed within it with a collection characterized by the break with the beauty canon, which stood out for the black in which it is made up of unfinished garments, holes, oversize…
It stands with other creators such as Yamamoto as a reference creator internationally, but announces a radical change with which he begins to call his creations "object for the body", within which the work of Fine Arts is located. Prioritize formal experimentation and innovation in the silhouette reminiscent of Balenciaga, according to Arzallus. This collection had references to both punk and fashion of the eighteenth century.
As Miren Arzallus explained, both in the frame and floral brocade, it reminds of the internal structures that shaped the fashion of the 18th century in Versailles, the silk industry of Lyon. And other elements such as fraying, unfinished edges or shoes covered with disheveled synthetic hair, "another irreverent element that refers to punk" stand out. Everything is associated in the same work. On the other hand, the Japanese designer always conceives her creations in three dimensions, therefore, to interpret it in its entirety it is necessary to surround them.
Every house design Comme des Garçons It is, as they struck yesterday, a manifesto. And it is that Kawakubo always bets on the deconstruction of the garments from its first parade in Paris in 1981 until in 2014 its silhouettes were transformed into “imposing structures”.
Although they are interpretable, the themes of the Japanese designs are at the mercy of the public, since Kawakubo never offers an explanation of them. Why? Because, as she explained, the interviews granted by the designer are rare, but according to Beguiristain, the designer said that "you don't need to talk to me, you just need to look at the clothes, what I mean is there."
The invited work
"The program of The invited work it serves to generate knowledge and expand the perspective of the collection of this Museum, ”said Beguiristain, who added that“ it expands borders or demolishes exhibiting pieces that establish a dialogue between the different arts ”, as demonstrated on this occasion, presenting a piece fashion that shares space in the Hall Ñ of the Museum with other arts, such as painting.
In addition, it is not the first time that the Bilbao art gallery has collaborated with the Parisian museum since years ago, as Zugaza recalled, it was exhibited in Bilbao, also under the Arzallus police station, although at that time I was still not running the Palais Galliera. A collaboration that the two directors were hopeful to extend over time. In addition, Zugaza reminded Arzallus, laughing, that the last guest of the Museum hangs from the ceiling, since he liked it so much that the Fine Arts decided to take on the hanging figures of Juan Muñoz.