Served with a white sauce in northern Europe or red on the shores of the Mediterranean, these small white meatballs with a golden crust require a certain know-how, tells us the author of this gastronomic column from a magazine. Russian. A new episode of our weekly meeting, “The Courrier of Recipes”.
Those who master the fish cakes can certainly claim the laurels of gastronomy. “The most important thing about the fricadelles is that they do not fall apart”, taught me my neighbor Ekaterina. At home, even the simple fish balls fell apart, so the fricadelles… I got to know my neighbor while looking for a supermarket in my new neighborhood. She was helpful and knew absolutely everything. In any case, she knew how to cook fricadelles, I saw her making it when I rang at her place for the fifth time in search of salt, milk or some spice that I had forgotten to buy.
Until then, it was my grandmother who made the fricadelles, but she had stayed in Moscow while I started a family in St. Petersburg where everything was foreign to me at the time. I wanted, at least, to eat something familiar. I had tried twice to make some before finally turning to Ekaterina.
A dish with such a Slavic soul
From now on, I know how to cook fricadelles with cream as with tomato sauce, I learned to choose the fish and I even know the origin of this foreign-sounding dish, but with such a Slavic soul. Historians of Russian gastronomy Olga and Pavel Sioutkine speak of one of the most Russian dishes of all the known gastronomic repertoire of the pre-revolutionary period: telnoïé. It is undoubtedly the ancestor of fish fricadelles. Most of the time we use the word “Telnoïé” mistakenly thinking that it comes from the word “Body” (which means “flesh”), associating it with meat.
But it is a fish dish. “It is cooked with pike or pikeperch”, can we read in one of the sources
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