In the course of my trip around the world, I am in Georgia for the last time. If you want to travel the country, you need a good plan, because all the mountains and valleys worth seeing, wine-growing areas, archaeological sites and the Black Sea coast are far apart. The most convenient way to explore the attractions is by rental car. But the so-called Marshrutkas (minibuses) also work wonderfully. However, sometimes you have to accept a small detour.
From the mountain region in Kazbegi, you first return to Tbilisi before you can continue to Gori. Gori is world famous: On the one hand, dictator Josef Stalin was born here in 1878, who ruled the Soviet Union from 1927 until his death in 1953. On the other hand, the fascinating cave town of Uplistsikhe is nearby. So it is easy to find a guest house in Gori.
I stayed with Anna, who is very happy about the guest from the West. She owns a mansion and proudly tells me that she works at the Stalin Museum just around the corner. She studied history, her sister medicine and the daughter as well. While the other family members work in Tbilisi, she and her son take care of the house and the tourists.
Unfortunately, Corona has almost brought business to a standstill, she says. She used to have many guests from all over the world, but mainly from Russia. Russian is still spoken in her family, which is common in educated circles in Georgia. The majority of the house with its meter-high ceilings is not heated for cost reasons.
The museum in Gori celebrates Joseph Stalin as a hero
The architect of her domicile also designed the Stalin Museum. You can tell the relationship in the spacious construction. The museum contains not only the original birthplace, but also the dictator’s 80-ton armored coach.
Despite his cruel rule, Stalin is still revered by many people in Russia and other states of the former Soviet Union. The museum seems to feel committed to this target group: on a tour, one has the oppressive feeling that a hero is being celebrated here.
The heart of the museum in Gori is the house where Josef Stalin was born in December 1878
Those: pa / Design Pics / Peter Langer
After all the glorifying portraits (even as a carpet), photos, busts and birthday presents from all over the world, Stalin seems almost sympathetic. On the occasion of his 70th birthday, he received a porcelain plate from Poland with the inscription: “Stalin – that means freedom and peace between nations.” Frighteningly cynical, considering that his “purges” alone cost millions of lives.
The rock town of Uplistsikhe was once one of the trading points on the old Silk Road
Source: pa/zb/Reinhard Kaufhold
And so I prefer to be enthusiastic about Uplistsikhe. The 6th century BC rock-cut city is impressive. Located a few kilometers outside of Gori, it was one of the trading points on the ancient Silk Road. I’m lucky: The weather is great, the sun is shining and the view extends down to the entire valley region. The stopover in Gori was worth it.
Old defense towers and hiking trails in the mountains
Continue by train to Zugdidi. As soon as I get off the train, a marshrutka driver calls me over. “Mestia?” he asks. “Yes,” I reply. I’m already sitting in his car with a handful of other tourists on the way to the mountain town of Mestia.
The driver is in a hurry and is very communicative. He sings, jokes, takes turns on the phone and texts two smartphones as he speeds up the hairpin bends. I guess he knows the route by heart. So I’d rather look out the side window than at his wild activities behind the wheel.
Mestia is a picturesque place in the mountains with ancient defense towers that you can climb
What: dpa/dpa/Murad Orujov
But his chaotic driving style is not good for the car that has been taken along, after all the transmission quits the service. One of the gears can no longer be engaged, so that we can only drive uphill slowly with the engine roaring. The good mood of the driver is gone. If such a trip is too nerve-racking for you, you can fly to Mestia cheaply from Tbilisi and admire the mountains from above.
Arrived in the mountain town, I’m blown away. It is a picturesque place with countless old defense towers that you can climb. There are also a number of hiking routes in the area. Probably the most popular leads to the village community of Ushguli. Unfortunately, it’s quite wintry, so there’s only enough time to hike to the Chalaadi Glacier before the region is blanketed in snow. Looks fantastic, but is not ideal for hiking.
Batumi is different from the rest of Georgia
At the end of my tour of Georgia I treat myself to a portion of sun. From the mountains it goes directly to the Black Sea to Batumi. What a contrast. In about five hours by car you are out of the snowy area and walking in a T-shirt on a palm-lined promenade by the sea. Although daily temperatures rarely drop below ten degrees, it can snow here between December and February. But because Batumi is in the subtropical climate zone, it feels completely different here than the rest of Georgia.
In the port city of Batumi, you can stroll along the sea on a promenade lined with palm trees
Quelle: pa/Zoonar/Bruno Coelho
The Mediterranean flair of the city is reminiscent of Spain. Unfortunately also when it comes to the concrete bed castles. Orbi City in southern Batumi is reminiscent of the skyscrapers of Benidorm.
Here, hundreds of identical-looking studio apartments in three identical skyscrapers are rented out to tourists. Ironically, even though they’re right on the water, very few offer real lake views. Instead, most of the tenants have a view of the neighboring residential tower across the street or of the construction sites all around. Luckily I found an apartment near the old town.
Batumi is a casino city. If you don’t like gambling, you should rather visit the botanical garden. This is idyllically located in the north by the sea. Due to the subtropical climate, this green oasis is extremely varied. A three-hour walk actually takes you through the entire flora of the planet: from the South Caucasus to Asia, Australia and New Zealand to North and South America and back to Europe.
It’s a pity that such a round trip is not possible in today’s Corona reality. I will continue my trip around the world anyway. I’m leaving Georgia heading west. My plan: I want to change continents.
Read more parts of the world tour series “One Way Ticket” here. The column appears every two weeks.
The botanical garden in Batumi shows plants from all over the world
Quelle: Martin Lewicki