2023-09-24 21:12:31
The last Italian tenor to show on Sunday, Giorgio Armani closes Milan Fashion Week with a very personal and luminous collection. Focusing on shimmering fabrics and all kinds of shine, the couturier wanted to explore, through his clothes with changing reflections, the different vibrations generated by emotions, sensations and feelings.
See the Giorgio Armani show, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
“Vibes” is the name given to this collection of women’s ready-to-wear for spring-summer 2024, which was unveiled in the center of Milan, in the small theater located in the basement of the historic palace from via Borgonuovo, at number 21, where Giorgio Armani organized his very first fashion shows. The space is so small that no less than three sessions had to be planned to accommodate guests, buyers, journalists and celebrities, including actresses Juliette Binoche and Cate Blanchett.
“For once, there is no beige,” jokes the Italian fashion boss, who has imposed this shade as the signature of most of his collections over the years. “Vibrations mean color, movement. It’s similar to a structure that evolves on the body. That’s all that inspired me,” he explains to a handful of journalists.
Starting from a series of first more neutral looks, combining a classic gray with a golden bronze, in very chic jacket-trouser sets, Giorgio Armani gradually arrived at color in a gradient of aquatic shades (blue and green), to plunge into a deep, shiny black, before illuminating his clothes in every possible way.
The designer favors shimmering fabrics, such as satin, shantung, silk or even a kind of leather-Lurex. Then, like a magician with his magic wand, he makes everything he touches sparkle. Tops are iridescent or sprinkled with rhinestones. A bolero is entirely embroidered with precious stones. Tunics and long dresses in blue veil shine like a starry night. Another is scattered with silver fringed bouquets, like sea anemones.
See the Giorgio Armani show, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
Transparent loincloths and long tulle skirts encrusted with crystals sit delicately on the pants. The pants are, in fact, the flagship piece of this collection. With pleats, slightly rounded on the sides, it is worn straight with flat lace-up ankle boots, most often cut in sparkling satin.
The transparencies, the vaporous tulle, certain constructions based on wavy strips and especially long beaded fringes reinforce the idea of movement, just like the light which constantly changes on these sparkling outfits. The collection is further illuminated towards the end of the show with bright white sets, where a delicate pink is introduced.
This explosion of light is nevertheless always precisely dosed. No bling bling fashion at Giorgio Armani. But a constant search for a certain whispered, almost natural elegance. It is also with undisguised pleasure that the stylist noted the current craze for what we call quiet luxury. “I saw a lot of normality, and research on the catwalks. What we see today in fashion and in the shows makes me think that we have finally understood what I have been proclaiming for years “, he blurted.
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