In Paris, Fashion Week in search of renewed energy

The parades, when they take place in their classic form, «in physics ”, are taking place this year outdoors to facilitate the distancing of guests and models. Thursday, the Chloé show took place at the foot of the Palais de Tokyo, that of Isabel Marant in the garden of the Palais-Royal. With this common point, palpable: the desire to comfort their customers, even to dope them.

The ingenuity of Issey Miyake

Containment of Satoshi Kondo has proven to be productive. The designer of women’s ready-to-wear from the house of Issey Miyake remained locked up at his home in Tokyo for long weeks. From this period of great calm was born the idea of ​​technological clothing and no less aesthetic, easy to carry. The Miyake house is thus developing several lines with the idea of ​​producing a compact garment, which travels and stows away without spilling over: polyester pieces (jacket, pants, skirt, beret, etc.) unzip in several parts that are easy to put on as desired , a coat transforms when folded into a cover or bag, other cotton and polyester creations reveal a new pleat – Issey Miyake’s centerpiece – with a sponge texture that rolls up on itself and holds in the pocket, a dress in two parts, on which is drawn a cozy lounge, takes shape with the help of simple cords.

Another technique born from this collection is a soft bust made from layers of cold-molded felt and polyester. The set, which reveals beautiful prints, fits in a single large suitcase. Marie Kondo (who is not related to the designer of the house), come out of this body.

Issey Miyake fashion show. Photo Gabriel Boyer

Chloé’s triptych

Natacha Ramsay-Levi has been addressing the vast community of women since her beginnings. Her speech is feminist (she speaks of“Union of feminist forces”) and reassuring: the 40-year-old designer intends to protect and support (if possible over the long term) her clients and offer them optimistic fashion in a world that is not. Thursday, his parade at the foot of the Palais de Tokyo and the Museum of modern art multiplied the perspectives on the same collection. A triptych of screens first shows a film shot in the streets of Paris. Then come the models, who stop at the foot of the stairs, discuss, daydream. They finally scroll in a more classic way, and their image is displayed again in the background, on the giant screens.

The collection itself is less sophisticated than Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s previous proposals, while taking care of the details: the collar of a striped shirt covered with roses ends in floral embroidery, a navy blue sweater and black in transparent mesh is delicately underlined on the chest by two crochet circles, navy blue trousers with very wide darts are associated with a belt with a horse motif, an almost totem animal of Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Chloe.

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The designer is collaborating this season with an artist who died in 1986. The patterns of several screen prints by the American Corita Kent, an activist nun and underground figure in the art of the 60s and 70s, are printed, knitted or embroidered on sweaters, shirts and t-shirts. We can read carrier messages to wear as a Coué method: «hope» and «you can handle it».

Isabel Marant, all that glitters

The gardens of the Palais Royal, temple of the Parisian bourgeoisie, are rarely used to seeing their BPM pass the sound barrier. The Isabel Marant parade, organized Thursday evening in this sumptuous setting, reminded us fondly of the wild holidays. To do this, the designer invited the dancers of the horde to join the models (men and women). Their performance evokes desire and embrace to end in generalized release.

Isabel Marant fashion show

Isabel Marant fashion show. Photo Gabriel Boyer

It all started delicately with a couple of performers on roller skates. The rhythm is then quickly given: frenzied or nothing. For next spring, Isabel Marant wants to thumb his nose at the pandemic and the confinement lurking in the shadows. His collection is developed in four paintings: pink-purple, red, blue and black. Models walk energetically (the Horde effect), wear sexy sets and pieces that look back on the years Gym Tonic.

We spotted a pink velvet bolero trimmed with trimmings, a pale pink dress with a butterfly neckline in English embroidery, lamé pants that shine brilliantly, a red work jumpsuit with large pockets worn over a purple lamé shirt and finally a magnificent short jacket, bolero inspiration, treasure of fuschia and blue embroidery.

Filling up Loewe

For his part, Jonathan W. Anderson delivered his collection on Friday for the Spanish brand Loewe (he also works for his own label) in the form of an exhibition on Stockmann then on hangers (for the most commercial pieces), and he is categorical: “If the restaurants close, why would I do a show?” I choose to highlight the manufacturing process, the craftsmanship, the work of all our teams. Knowing that I believe that we all have a moral responsibility, while other art forms suffer a huge catastrophe: we must be humble, now is not the time to be loud but to observe and to be creative. ” The London-based Irishman is one of the many creators who welcome the slowdown generated by the pandemic: “At the beginning, it was very hard, and the collective work remains complicated to organize. But this disaster also allowed us to refocus because we had lost sight of what fashion really is, it was too much about shows, celebrities, figures… This is why I consider that this moment is also a huge opportunity to know again what this job is and why we do it. ” What about the economic slowdown induced by the global slowdown? “Everyone will suffer the economic consequences. But I think now is the perfect time to ask the question: what do we need? Focus on the essentials. And theis great ideas and great products make money, so I trust… Of course there are a lot of worries, of multiple orders, and they run through our teams, but you have to get to be creative from all of these anxieties. De anyway i am an optimistic person.»

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The collection presented against a background of pop wallpaper created for the occasion by the British artist Anthea Hamilton is in fact stunning in its mastery, a tribute to Spain with games of volumes (dresses, skirts, pants, balloon sleeves as inflated helium, a look is reminiscent of the famous combination «Tokyo Pop ”created by Kansai Yamamoto for David Bowie), scarves that escape, bows, ruffles, cutouts, braided leathers. Founded in 1846, Loewe is synonymous with opulence and refinement. JW Anderson, 36, in charge for more than six, enlivens the honorable house. He sculpts the garment, appropriates heritage codes (the infant’s dress, for example) by giving them a radicality and vitality which excludes any smell of mothballs. Very strong.

Exhibition of the Loewe collection. Photo Gabriel Boyer

Y / Project from long to large

Seeing fashion in digital form can shed light on a method and a way of doing things. This is the case with Y / Project, a label managed by Belgian Glenn Martens. One of the founding principles of the brand is to rethink clothing in depth, carrying the idea of ​​a mutant fashion, which moves according to mood, place or time. The Y / Project film uses the same principle as the one broadcast during the previous fashion week, dedicated to men’s ready-to-wear: the model is surrounded by a couple of dressers at work, allowing us to see the different dimensions of the garment. Martens fashion is «versatile» he says, be modular and transformable, like a game that has the advantage of recycling a wardrobe at little cost.

Examples: a long, green dress with a snake print is cut to the length and embellished with snap-style baggy jogging. The buttoning allows the garment to be transformed almost endlessly (new collar, variable sleeves, multiple lengths). Same principle with a classic brown leather coat, which once transformed reveals a hoodie with which it seems mixed. Glenn Martens also plays with the codes of Taylorism, decking out a light gray androgynous suit with gathers at the back of the leg. Another, candy pink with blue stripes, is overloaded with fabric which creates astonishing volumes and gives the impression of wearing double pants.


Sabrina Champenois

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Marie Ottavi

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