Happy who like the cook always makes us travel. On the moleskin bench of a chic brasserie as on the wobbly chair of a boui-boui, bectance ignores borders. Obviously in these times of confinement, you will tell me macache, nada, impossible to go bang the bell in our favorite canteen. All the more reason to connect to the Planet + channel on Sunday March 29 at 9:55 p.m. where we will find cook Nordine Labiadh as part of the documentary series. Planet Chefs (1). From Paris to Zarzis in Tunisia, the director Stéphane Carrel set out for a month in the footsteps of the chef of the restaurant A mi-chemin, in Paris, to recount his journey as singular as it is moving.
Who better than Nordine Labiadh can take us to the end of our dreams of adventurous taste buds with his “cuttlefish chorba”, his “simmered milk-fed veal dumplings, fine dill semolina”, his “rice with coconut milk cardamom, served lukewarm “? We will never stop repeating it, Nordine Labiadh is a ferryman of tastes and flavors between his native Tunisia and France where he landed one winter evening in 1999. He first learned the canons of French gastronomy, the dishes of these regions which made him dream of France when he was a child, he followed the Tour de France from Zarzis, a port city in the south-east of Tunisia.
In the kitchen, it took this humble and generous man time to free himself from what he thought was a one-way trip to France and its tricolor cuisine. It also took all the love of his wife Virginie, a Breton expert in natural wines, to convince him that he was going to overcome the tension between bourguignon and couscous and revisit all these dishes by putting his own creativity and sensitivity of the child who contemplated his mother washing the spices in a palm sieve. He could have contented himself with hanging up the wagons between France and Tunisia by jiggling a bit of both in the ambient air of the fusion kitchen. But he did much more than this shortcut, he invented his own score according to the seasons, his meetings. Take his mayonnaise eggs. There is no more French bistro than this entry. Nordine Labiadh revisits them by flavoring mayonnaise with ras-el-hanout, a blend of sunny spices from across the Mediterranean. And he grates a little poutargue over it, these dried mullet eggs prepared by a Corsican fishing friend, an island of which Nordine and Virginie have become true ambassadors. We come to their restaurant, without guide or compass, motionless traveler but nourished by all the dreams of an extraordinary magician cook. In Stéphane Carrel’s documentary, he finds an old fisherman in the port of Zarzis whom he knows well and who says to him: “The fish always leave and come back.”
For Release, he concocted a dessert around the strawberry, simple and tasty: you need two trays of gariguette strawberries; 500g of cottage cheese; a grapefruit ; a tablespoon of brown sugar. Wash and dry the strawberries and grapefruit thoroughly. Hull the strawberries and marinate them for five minutes in the squeezed grapefruit juice. Place the fromage blanc in the center of a large plate. Sprinkle with a little grated grapefruit skin. Surround it with strawberries and their juice on which you will have sprinkled the brown sugar.
(1) Planet Master on Planète +, a documentary series by Stéphane Carrel. Sunday March 29, 8:55 p.m .: first part, chef Beatriz Gonzalez; 9:55 p.m., second part Nordine Labiadh.
Replay on April 3 at 11:05 a.m., on 4 at 11:25 a.m. and on 9 at 10:35 a.m.