He gave stripes and prestige to the best prêt-à-porter and was able to turn a trucker’s back into a sexy
Spectacular shapes for anatomical fashion, sharp and angular cuts, extreme volumes, wide shoulders, a tight waist, expressive sensuality and voluptuousness, the olfactory trail of that ‘gourmand’ perfume, ‘Angel’, which left scents of English chocolate and cream of candy; or even the wonderful ‘show’ of a structured elegance that fed on aesthetic codes as extroverted and contradictory as glam, 50’s Hollywood, futurism, science fiction or the inspiration of the heroines of ‘Barbarella’ and ‘El Swan Lake’, both passed through a ‘vamp’ blender. All that was Thierry Mugler, who died unexpectedly yesterday at the age of 73.
It was the brilliant purée of one of those young fashion lieutenants who, since the 70s, gave stripes and prestige to the best prêt-à-porter, the recalcitrant product capable of turning a trucker’s back into a sexy one or the talent determined to dream of a Cadillac-inspired bustier. More stylist and designer than “couturier” -although with some masterly tailoring strokes- and more set designer of his own dreams and desires or visionary of the show than a solitary and rigorous craftsman, Mugler left behind with his fantasies the forms and trends of his time , turning women into contemporary heroines with their silhouettes and aesthetic avant-garde discourses, protagonists of their own power or stars as capable of being angels as demons.
“Fashion is almost like the cinema, every morning you get dressed and direct your own movie,” said Mugler, perhaps anticipating a superior hierarchy of scenic narrative and visual dramaturgy in his conception of fashion, something he confirmed in 2002 when he abandoned the design of his collections to devote himself to the world of the stage. But the poetic memory of his formal extravagance remains, the avant-garde of his “looks” in the 70s, 80s and 90s, the inspiration of his anatomical cut, the narrative of his free recalcitrance or even the millionaire sales of that star perfume, a fetish scent of seduction, glamor and power.
Legendary were his collaborations with David Bowie, Iman and George Michael. Throughout his career Thierry Mugler has dressed celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Cardi B, Jerry Hall, Beyonce, Katy Perry, Rihanna, Linda Evangelista, Demi Moore, Megan Fox, Miley Cyrus, Madonna, Cindy Crawford, Tyra Banks, Sharon Stone, Diana Ross, Nicole Kidman, Reese Witherspoon, Robin Wright or Bella Hadid.