Dublin’s Lena: An Authentic Italian Culinary Triumph by Seasoned Restaurateurs
Table of Contents
- 1. Dublin’s Lena: An Authentic Italian Culinary Triumph by Seasoned Restaurateurs
- 2. Ambiance and First impressions
- 3. A Deep Dive into the Menu
- 4. Pasta Perfection: Cacio e Pepe and Mezzaluna
- 5. The Main Event: Osso Buco
- 6. Libations and Liquid Refreshments
- 7. Sweet Endings: Rum baba and Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
- 8. Conclusion
- 9. What is it about Lena that you feel makes it a special culinary experience in Dublin?
- 10. Dublin’s Lena: An Interview with Food Critic Isabella Rossi on Authentic Italian Cuisine
The passion for Italian cuisine often sparks lively debate, especially among Italians themselves. As the saying goes, everyone believes their mother or grandmother makes the best dishes. food in Italy transcends mere sustenance; it’s an integral part of their rich culture and identity.
Now, can a trio of Irish entrepreneurs successfully launch an Italian restaurant that captures the genuine essence of Italian cooking? The answer is a resounding yes, particularly when the team includes liz Matthews, simon Barrett, and Paul McNamara, the accomplished restaurateurs behind Dublin’s acclaimed establishments, Uno Mas and Etto.
Ambiance and First impressions
Lena, situated in the space formerly occupied by Locks, has undergone a meaningful makeover. The new interior exudes a brighter and more refined atmosphere, featuring painted wooden paneling and minimalist wooden furniture. Upon arrival, guests receive a cordial welcome and are frequently enough seated by the canal-side windows—arguably the most coveted spots in the restaurant.
Lena’s menu adheres to the conventional Italian structure, categorizing dishes into Antipasti, Primi, and secondi. The Antipasti section offers light bites and snacks like olives and suppli, while the Primi section showcases a variety of pastas and small plates.
one dish that quickly gained viral popularity after the restaurant’s opening is the Anchovy and Sage Leaf Fritti (€8). This seemingly simple yet profoundly flavorful creation features an anchovy sandwiched between two sage leaves, enveloped in a light and airy tempura batter. The crispy exterior gives way to an explosion of taste, with the salty anchovy perfectly balanced by the herbaceous sage. The sourdough focaccia (€5), fermented for 72 hours, boasts a nutty and textured profile. It is served with a fruity-bitter olive oil for dipping and a delightful sticky honey glaze.
Pasta Perfection: Cacio e Pepe and Mezzaluna
Cacio e Pepe (€16) is a dish fraught with peril for restaurants outside of Rome due to the almost mystical reverence that surrounds it. Lena uses thicker, hand-rolled pici pasta instead of spaghetti, successfully recreating the dish’s signature peppery intensity and smooth texture.
These two pasta dishes were so good they felt like statements, as declarative and precise as clarion horns commanding a Roman legion to advance, the chefs at Lena know what they are doing, you might as well surrender.
While the portion may appear small, the dish’s richness more than compensates. Its impeccable execution could even placate a Lazio Ultra supporter after a tough loss to Juventus. The Pumpkin and Ricotta-filled Mezzaluna (€16) is equally exquisite, adorned with thick grated Parmesan cheese and immersed in a luscious brown butter sauce, enhanced by fried sage leaves and crunchy walnuts. These pasta dishes are not merely food; they are culinary declarations of skill and authenticity.
The Main Event: Osso Buco
For the main course, the Osso Buco (€33) is a standout choice.The veal shank, slow-cooked for approximately 46 hours, is topped with a herbal and distinctly lemony gremolata, a vibrant counterpoint to the meat’s richness. It is served atop a creamy Milanese risotto, infused with earthy, smoky saffron. The rice grains retain a pleasant bite, and diners are thoughtfully provided with a spoon to extract the prized, wobbly marrow from the bone’s center.
While it might seem unconventional, Crispy Garlic Potatoes (€6) complement the risotto surprisingly well. These potatoes are universally appealing. The Hispi Cabbage (€6), a quarter cabbage char-grilled and drizzled with tonnato sauce, offers a bittersweet flavor profile, while the tangy tonnato further elevates the overall taste.
Libations and Liquid Refreshments
The drinks menu is unsurprisingly Italian-focused, featuring a curated selection of aperitivos, such as the Cherry Negroni, Limoncello sour, and Peach Spritz. The wine list predominantly showcases Italian wines, including skin contact varieties like La Stoppa. A bottle of Trediberri Dogliani Dolcetto (€56) is an excellent choice, offering cherry scents, brightness, freshness, and bitter notes that pair well with both the creamy pasta dishes and the osso buco.
Sweet Endings: Rum baba and Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
For dessert, the Rum Baba (€10) is a delightful option, featuring a fluffy sponge infused with rum, topped with cream, pistachio pieces, and a slice of rhubarb. The Chocolate Olive oil Cake (€11) is even more decadent, boasting intense bitter chocolate flavors enhanced by peppery olive oil and an espresso ice cream. The core sweetness ensures the bitter notes do not overwhelm, creating a harmonious balance of flavors.
Conclusion
Lena represents another triumph for the trio of Matthews,Barrett,and McNamara. It is a restaurant executed with acuity, focus, and a palpable sense of joy and *dolce vita*. It’s a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic and delightful Italian dining experience in dublin.
The restaurant has been executed with acuity and focus but also with a sense of joy and of dolce vita
.Viva Lena.
| Rating | Address | Price |
|---|---|---|
| 8.5/10 | 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 | Dinner for two with wine cost €167 |
What is it about Lena that you feel makes it a special culinary experience in Dublin?
Dublin’s Lena: An Interview with Food Critic Isabella Rossi on Authentic Italian Cuisine
Archyde News: Welcome to Archyde News, Isabella. Thanks for joining us today to discuss Dublin’s Lena, the new Italian restaurant making waves. As a seasoned food critic, what were your initial impressions of the restaurant?
Isabella Rossi: Thank you for having me. Lena immediately impressed me. The conversion of the space,from the brighter interior to the canal-side window seating,creates a welcoming ambiance. It’s a space that’s both elegant and casual, which is a great start for an Italian dining experience.
Archyde News: Lena’s menu sounds quite inviting. Could you share your thoughts on some of the specific dishes you enjoyed, particularly the ones that stood out?
Isabella Rossi: Absolutely. The *Anchovy and Sage Leaf Fritti* was a revelation—simple yet bursting with flavor. The *Cacio e Pepe*, using hand-rolled pici pasta, was excellent. Thay truly captured the peppery intensity and smooth texture. And the *Osso Buco*… slow-cooked to perfection and served with a saffron risotto, was divine. The chefs clearly have a deep understanding of Italian culinary traditions.
Archyde News: The article highlighted the *osso Buco* as a standout. What, in your opinion, elevated this dish from good to remarkable?
Isabella Rossi: The key was in the details. The veal shank, slow- cooked with precision, the complementary gremolata, and the creamy risotto – each component was flawlessly executed. Even the inclusion of crispy garlic potatoes speaks to the chef’s understanding of flavour pairings and the overall diner experience.
Archyde News: Let’s talk about the drinks menu. Did the selection of Italian aperitivos and wines enhance the dining experience?
Isabella Rossi: Definitely. The Italian-focused drinks menu, with its curated selection of aperitivos and the emphasis on italian wines, particularly the skin contact varieties, complemented the food beautifully. the wine list offered excellent pairings.The Trediberri Dogliani Dolcetto, as an example, worked well with both the richer pasta dishes and the Osso Buco.
Archyde News: And what about the desserts? Sweet endings are important, and did these offerings live up to the standard established by the savories?
Isabella Rossi: The Rum Baba and the Chocolate Olive Oil Cake were stunning.The bitter chocolate and the peppery olive oil created a unique profile, striking a balance perfectly. It’s clear they’ve put the same care and attention into the dessert as they have into the other courses.
Archyde News: what is it about Lena that you feel makes it a special culinary experience in Dublin?
Isabella Rossi: Lena is a triumph as it demonstrates not only culinary skill but also a real sense of *dolce vita*. It shows that it is possible to bring authentic Italian cuisine to Dublin and execute it with joy and focus. I recommend that everyone finds a time to experience Lena.
Archyde News: isabella, thank you very much for your time and insightful commentary on Dublin’s new hot spot, Lena. It’s clear that this restaurant has set a high bar for Italian dining in the city. And to our readers, what is your favorite Italian dish?
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