The Enduring Wave: How Occy’s Approach to Surfboard Design Signals a Shift in Performance
At 59, Mark “Occy” Occhilupo isn’t slowing down. In fact, he’s arguably more dialed in than ever, and his relentless pursuit of the perfect wave – and the perfect board to ride it on – is quietly reshaping surfboard design. It’s not just about a lifelong passion; it’s about a growing demand for boards that prioritize effortless speed and wave-catching ability, a trend poised to disrupt the high-performance shortboard market as surfing becomes increasingly accessible and conditions become more variable.
Beyond the Thruster: The Rise of the Hybrid
Occy’s latest collaboration with JS Industries, the Bull Run, isn’t easily categorized. It’s not a mid-length, nor is it a traditional high-performance thruster. Instead, it’s a hybrid designed for speed and flow, a board that, as Occy puts it, “almost doesn’t go like a thruster… it goes so freaking quick.” This reflects a broader shift away from the purely radical maneuvers favored in professional surfing and towards boards that maximize fun and wave count for a wider range of surfers. The emphasis is on generating speed from the drop, minimizing pumping, and making the most of less-than-perfect conditions. This isn’t about sacrificing performance; it’s about surfboard design adapting to the realities of everyday waves.
The Accessibility Factor: Surfing for Everyone
Damien Hobgood’s enthusiasm for the Bull Run – noting its ability to “spice up your life” in mushy Californian waves – highlights a crucial point. The demand for boards like this isn’t limited to aging pros. It’s driven by a growing number of surfers who want to maximize their time in the water, regardless of wave size or their skill level. As surfing’s popularity continues to rise, particularly among beginners and intermediate surfers, the need for forgiving, easy-to-ride boards will only increase. This trend is fueled by advancements in materials and construction, allowing shapers to create boards with more volume and a fuller outline without sacrificing responsiveness.
Occy’s Secret Weapon: Never Missing a Wave
For Occy, the Bull Run’s key attribute is simple: “I don’t miss waves.” This speaks to a fundamental desire among surfers – to catch more waves and experience more joy in the water. His home break at Kirra, known for its long, reeling walls, perfectly showcases the board’s strengths. But the implications extend far beyond Kirra. The design philosophy behind the Bull Run – prioritizing paddle power, early entry, and sustained speed – is applicable to a wide variety of wave types and surfing styles. It’s a design that acknowledges the reality that most surfers spend more time paddling than performing radical maneuvers.
The Legacy of Rusty and the Evolution of Rails
Occy’s journey as a surfer is intrinsically linked to surfboard evolution. Coming of age on Rusty’s square-railed, table-flat boards, he’s witnessed firsthand the dramatic changes in design over the past four decades. This historical perspective informs his current preferences. The Bull Run represents a return to some of those earlier principles – a fuller outline, a more forgiving rail – but with the benefit of modern materials and construction techniques. It’s a synthesis of past and present, a testament to the cyclical nature of surfboard design.
Looking Ahead: Data-Driven Design and Personalized Performance
The future of surfboard design will likely be shaped by two key forces: data and personalization. Companies are increasingly using sensors and software to analyze a surfer’s performance and tailor boards to their specific needs. SwellInfo’s analysis of surfboard technology trends highlights the growing use of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and other advanced modeling techniques to optimize board designs. This data-driven approach, combined with the insights of experienced surfers like Occy, will lead to even more refined and personalized boards. We can expect to see more hybrids, more emphasis on wave-catching ability, and a continued blurring of the lines between different board categories. The enduring spirit of surfers like Occy – always seeking the perfect ride – will continue to drive innovation and shape the future of the sport.
What are your predictions for the future of surfboard design? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
