A Fusion of Fashion and Art: Exploring the Interplay at Frieze Art Fair

“When you are at the art fair, you push the fashion to be bold and experiment – no black allowed,” says Belma Gaudio, at the opening of Frieze art fair in London.

Gaudio is the founder of fashion boutique Koibird and an art collector, and carries a bright green Hermès bag, and her own knitted co-ords with pictures of insects to make her point.

Fashion and art are familiar bedfellows but the relevance of fashion at Frieze, where more than 300 galleries and artists ranging from Lauren Halsey to Gilbert & George display works, has grown over the last decade.

Crucially, unlike fashion week where an invite is essential, anyone can go along to Frieze – if they pay about £60 for a ticket. This “real people” factor is catnip for fashion street style.

At the fair this October, the crowd mixed neutrals with pops of colour. The art crowd are often well-heeled, so the signs of the super-rich – Birkin bags, discreet cosmetic surgery and even fur coats – were in evidence, alongside a stylish, creative crowd. Attention-grabbing outfits mixed with fashion-literate but more low-key looks.

Belma Gaudio: ‘I tend to wear something that is comfortable but a little bit standout, with an affinity towards the art.’ Photograph: Sarah Lee/The Guardian

Charlene Prempeh, the founder of creative agency A Vibe Called Tech, is wearing all-black – but the sculptural shapes ensure her outfit fits in. “There’s very few occasions where you can get dressed up for a day event,” she says. “That’s what the fair facilitates.”

Too many overt blue-chip symbols turn some of the crowd off. Osman Ahmed, a writer wearing a Prada skirt and Alaïa bag, says he tones his look down at Frieze: “When there’s so much wealth and status signifiers in the room, I don’t want to be associated with that.”

Fashion brands, however, perhaps see an opportunity. Dunhill, Stone Island, Loewe and Nanushka are partners, meaning their branding will appear at the fair.

Talking to the Financial Times, both Dunhill and department store Dover Street Market said they often saw increased footfall during Frieze week.

“[It] is both a fashion and art moment,” says Gaudio. Koibird launched a collection from artist James Shaw in store this week.

Prada is perhaps the artiest of fashion brands. Last year, co-creative director Raf Simons told Vogue that “my interest in art is much bigger than my interest in fashion.”

For Frieze week, it has opened Prada Modea space in King’s Cross.

It features an installation by the Danish-Norwegian contemporary art duo, Elmgreen & Dragset, entitled The Audience.

Visitors will walk into a “cinema” to watch an intentionally blurred film. Along with other people, they will share the space with five hyper-real sculptures sitting in the seats. One, of course, is wearing Prada.

It’s a full circle moment for the artists. Twenty years ago, they erected Prada Marfa, a replica of a Prada store, in the Texas desert. The project, originally a comment on the pomposity of land art, has since become an Instagram spot – Beyoncé and Solange posted selfies in 2012 – and it was in The Simpsons in 2019.

Although it wasn’t a collaboration with the brand, Prada gave permission for the artists to use the logo, and provided Prada designs to fill the store.

Osman Ahmed: ‘I always think what would Miuccia Prada wear? There a discreet, chic vibe that I want to go for.’ Photograph: Sarah Lee/The Guardian

“In an informal way, that was our first collaboration,” says Michael Elmgreen. “It’s the [autumn/winter] 2005 collection, which happened to be in very desert-friendly coloured tones. They fit tremendously well in the desert landscape.”

Two decades on from Prada Marfa, JW Anderson had two paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin on the walls of the venue for his Dior show in June, Roksanda Ilinčić was inspired by Barbara Hepworth for her latest collection, and a sculpture by Kwangho Lee was on the catwalk at Bottega Veneta.

Artists are also inspired by fashion. Naomi Lulendo, exhibiting at the fair for the first time and wearing a striking outfit of a striped Kenzo shirt and flowing skirt, uses fabric and clothes in her work.

“Clothing is projecting something,” she says, “and since everybody’s projecting something on to you, you have a kind of control … I like people to see me in a way I want to be seen.”

London-based designer Bianca Saunders also makes artwork. This October, she collaborated with the Tate on designs that use the work of William Blake.

Art is central to her practice. “Whenever I feel blocked, I’m just like: ‘Let me do my rounds at the galleries,’” she says.

The artistic world is also inspiring. “When I first [started]I was like: ‘I want to see [people] walking around Frieze wearing the brand.’ That’s the customer that I want – for them to be observers of art.”

Naomi Lulendo: ‘It’s finding the balance between comfortable and also a bit classy and sassy and chic.’ Photograph: Sarah Lee/The Guardian

Elmgreen agrees that outfits are now part of the experience of Frieze.

“You can say it’s a fair for common people [because anyone can buy a ticket]. It’s not only for the selected few who have the money to buy the art … I think the fashion world is interested in a group of people that they can reach through the art.

“And the artist is definitely also interested in a group of people they can reach through the fashion world.”

This article was Amended on 17 October 2025. An Earlier Version referred to the Danish Art Duo of elmgre & Dragset; However, English dragset is norwegian.

How has the ancient relationship between art and fashion manifested in specific designs, such as FortunyS gowns or Yves Saint laurent’s dresses?

The Historical Symbiosis of Art and Fashion

The relationship between art and fashion isn’t new. Throughout history,these disciplines have consistently influenced each other. From Fortuny’s Delphos gowns inspired by ancient Greek sculpture to Yves saint Laurent’s Mondrian dress, fashion has long borrowed from the visual arts. This reciprocal relationship is powerfully showcased at events like Frieze Art Fair, a leading international contemporary art event. Understanding this art and fashion connection requires looking at how both fields reflect and shape cultural trends.The influence of art on fashion is often direct, with designers referencing specific artists or movements. Conversely, fashion’s impact on art can be seen in how artists explore themes of identity, consumerism, and the body, often mirroring fashion’s concerns.

Frieze Art Fair: A Contemporary Canvas for Collaboration

Frieze art Fair, held annually in London and New York, has become a notable platform for this interplay. It’s no longer simply an art event; it’s a cultural hub where contemporary art and fashion collide.

* Designer Collaborations: Frieze frequently features collaborations between artists and fashion houses. These range from limited-edition clothing lines inspired by artworks to artists designing installations within fashion brand spaces.

* Art-Inspired Collections: Many designers unveil collections directly influenced by the art on display at Frieze. Expect to see color palettes, textures, and even silhouettes mirroring the works of exhibiting artists.

* Celebrity Style & Artistic Expression: The fair attracts a stylish crowd, with celebrities and fashion influencers frequently enough making bold statements that echo the artistic themes of the event. This creates a powerful visual dialog between art and personal style.

* The Rise of ‘Artisanal’ Fashion: Frieze frequently enough highlights designers who embrace handcrafted techniques and artistic processes, blurring the lines between fine art and fashion design.

Key Trends Observed at Recent Frieze Fairs

Recent Frieze fairs have highlighted several key trends demonstrating the deepening fusion of art and fashion:

1. Bold Colour and Texture: Inspired by abstract expressionism and colour field painting, designers are embracing vibrant hues and tactile fabrics.Think oversized knits, textured silks, and unexpected colour combinations.
2. Sculptural Silhouettes: Artists exploring three-dimensional forms have influenced fashion’s move towards sculptural garments. this includes exaggerated shoulders, voluminous sleeves, and architectural draping.
3. The body as Canvas: Similar to body art and performance art, fashion is increasingly using clothing as a medium for self-expression and challenging conventional beauty standards. This is reflected in experimental designs and unconventional materials.
4. Digital Art & Fashion’s Metaverse Exploration: The rise of NFTs and digital art is impacting fashion, with brands experimenting with virtual clothing, digital avatars, and immersive experiences. Digital fashion is becoming a significant component of the art and fashion landscape.

case Study: Simone Rocha and Frieze 2023

In 2023, Simone Rocha presented a collection heavily influenced by the work of Louise bourgeois, whose sculptures were also featured at Frieze. Rocha translated Bourgeois’ themes of fragility, strength, and the female form into delicate fabrics, intricate embellishments, and sculptural silhouettes. This collaboration wasn’t merely aesthetic; it was a thoughtful exploration of shared artistic concerns. The collection was lauded for its emotional depth and its ability to seamlessly blend artistic inspiration and fashion design.

Benefits of This Interdisciplinary Approach

The fusion of art and fashion offers several benefits:

* Increased Creativity: Cross-pollination of ideas sparks innovation and pushes creative boundaries.

* enhanced Brand Identity: Collaborations with artists can elevate a brand’s image and appeal to a wider audience.

* Cultural Relevance: Engaging with contemporary art demonstrates a brand’s commitment to culture and intellectual curiosity.

* New Revenue Streams: Limited-edition collections and exclusive collaborations can generate significant revenue.

* Elevated Consumer Experience: Art-inspired fashion offers consumers a more meaningful and enriching experience.

Practical Tips for Navigating Frieze & Identifying the trends

For those attending Frieze or seeking to understand the latest fashion trends influenced by art:

* Research the Exhibiting Artists: Familiarize yourself with the artists showcasing their work at the fair.

* Pay Attention to Colour Palettes: Note the dominant colours and textures in the artworks.

* Observe the Silhouettes: Analyze the shapes and forms used by the artists.

* Follow Fashion Influencers: Track what key fashion figures are wearing and how they’re interpreting the art.

* Read Fashion Coverage: Stay updated on articles and reports from fashion publications covering Frieze.

* Explore the fair’s Online Resources: Frieze often provides online catalogues and interviews with artists and designers.

The Future of Art and Fashion: A Continued Dialogue

The relationship between art and fashion is poised to become even more intertwined. As technology continues to evolve and cultural boundaries blur, we can expect to see even more innovative collaborations and groundbreaking designs.The future