Paris Fashion Week delivered a surprising collision of high fashion and teen drama as Balenciaga’s latest collection drew heavily from the visual world of HBO’s Euphoria. The indicate, known for its raw depiction of adolescence and its distinctive aesthetic, provided the inspiration for designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest offering, signaling a bold attempt to connect with a younger audience.
The collaboration wasn’t merely superficial. Sam Levinson, the showrunner of Euphoria, designed the installation and cinematography for the Balenciaga set, transforming the Avenue des Champs-Élysées venue into a space reflecting the series’ signature blend of glamour, and grit. The collection itself explored themes of “light and darkness,” a concept Piccioli connected to both the show’s narrative and the function of Caravaggio, the 17th-century Italian painter known for his dramatic use of chiaroscuro.
Guests were greeted with flickering video screens displaying nocturnal cityscapes and preview images from the highly anticipated third season of Euphoria, set to return in April. A particularly striking detail was a sweater featuring a still of Danielle Deadwyler, a new cast member, smoking a cigarette in a blood-red top, immediately linking the runway to the show’s distinctive visual language.
Piccioli explained his intention was “to take a picture of this generation,” praising Euphoria for its non-judgmental portrayal of its characters. “What I love about his show is that he doesn’t criticise, or celebrate, or judge. He shows us the humanity of the characters,” he said backstage, according to reports. The collection itself mirrored this approach, featuring glossy blacks, harsh neons, bare legs, ab-revealing dresses, and scrunched leather jackets.
A Legacy of Disruption
Balenciaga has a history of pushing boundaries, a tradition that dates back to its founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga. In postwar Paris, Balenciaga challenged the prevailing fashion norms with architectural silhouettes, offering an alternative to Christian Dior’s more restrictive designs. The brand continued to embrace avant-garde aesthetics under Nicolas Ghesquière and later, a more sullen streetwear vibe under Demna.
The presence of Euphoria actors Chloe Cherry and Hudson Williams backstage further cemented the connection between the fashion house and the HBO series. The moodboard they posed near included a reference to Caravaggio’s “The Calling of Saint Matthew,” reinforcing Piccioli’s theme of “light and darkness.” From a business perspective, the collaboration is a clear attempt to capture the attention – and purchasing power – of Gen Z.
Beyond Balenciaga: Celine’s Shift in Silhouette
The influence of Paris Fashion Week extended beyond Balenciaga. At Celine, designer Michael Rider signaled a departure from the preppy aesthetic that had been gaining traction. “I don’t perceive that preppy is all there is – either for me, or for Celine. There is more to the story,” Rider stated backstage, according to Dazed.
The new collection featured a more abbreviated silhouette, with shorter jackets and flood-length kick flares, often layered in black. Rider described the look as having “bite,” a move away from the looser, more voluminous styles that have been popular recently. “We were talking about ‘bite’,” he explained. “There’s been a lot of fabric around, recently, and I felt like controlling it more this season. I wanted something less swaddled, and more zippy.”
The collaboration between Balenciaga and Euphoria represents a significant moment in fashion, demonstrating the growing influence of popular culture on high-end design. As brands continue to seek ways to connect with younger consumers, expect to see more such partnerships in the future. The impact of these trends on everyday wardrobes remains to be seen, but the conversation has undoubtedly begun.
What will be the lasting impact of this collaboration on Balenciaga’s brand identity? Only time will tell, but the initial response suggests a willingness to embrace a new, more youthful aesthetic. Share your thoughts in the comments below.
