In Camau Province, Vietnam, many families continue the tradition of making banh tet – a savory sticky rice cake – during the Lunar New Year, preparing the food to share with children, grandchildren, and guests. For those who have left their hometowns, the act of making banh tet embodies the spirit of returning home, gathering around a shared pot, and reaffirming familial bonds.
Nguyen Thi Mi Ba, 67, of Hung My commune, Camau City, spent the day before the main cooking preparing the ingredients. She had already soaked the glutinous rice, boiled the mung beans, and marinated the pork, ensuring everything was ready when neighbors arrived to help with the labor-intensive process of wrapping the cakes. “When the neighbors come to help, we can develop the banh tet much faster,” she explained.
For over 40 years, Ba has dedicated herself to making banh tet each Lunar New Year, a skill passed down from her mother-in-law. She recalls her mother-in-law patiently teaching her how to fold the leaves, evenly distribute the filling, and securely tie the cakes. Since then, the making of banh tet has become a cherished annual tradition for her family. “My family makes this food for three days during the Lunar New Year, and we also pass the recipe on to our children and grandchildren. Today, the neighbors came to help, and tomorrow I will go to their houses to make more as a thank you,” Ba said.
Once the cakes are carefully wrapped, the process of boiling begins. Makers place dong leaves – often banana leaves – in a large pot, add water, and then carefully place the banh tet inside. The cakes simmer for approximately four hours, requiring constant attention to maintain the fire. Children in the household traditionally manage the fire, adding wood and replenishing the water – a task that holds fond childhood memories for many.
The wrapping process itself is meticulous. Two banana leaves are laid vertically, overlapping slightly. A layer of glutinous rice is spread evenly, followed by a filling of mung bean paste, and then a layer of banana or fatty pork. This represents all covered with another layer of rice. The finished cake is then tightly wrapped and tied.
After boiling, the cakes are removed, hung to drain, and then cut into smaller pieces to be offered to ancestors. Banh tet in Camau is typically filled with either banana flower or mung bean paste. The cakes are formed into long, firm cylinders, symbolizing abundance and fulfillment.
The fire used to boil the banh tet during Tet is more than just a means of cooking; it serves to strengthen the bonds between family members and neighbors. The shared effort and communal atmosphere contribute to the festive spirit of the Lunar New Year.
