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For a quick, satisfying bite, Italians have long turned to the tramezzino. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the simple yet beloved sandwich, a staple of Italian life that often surpasses even pasta and pizza in popularity as a convenient, affordable meal. Currently priced between €2.50 and €3, the tramezzino’s enduring appeal lies in its portability and ease.
Born in 1926 in Turin, in the Piedmont region of Italy, the tramezzino was the brainchild of Angela Demichelis Nebiolo. Returning from the United States, Nebiolo sought to create a sandwich variation that was both effortless to eat and filling, a concept that resonated immediately with the local population. The story of its creation is a fascinating blend of culinary innovation and a touch of linguistic rebellion.
The origins of the tramezzino are closely tied to Caffè Mulassano, a historic café in Turin. A discreet brass plaque within the café commemorates the invention, noting that Angela Demichelis Nebiolo invented the tramezzino in 1926. As reported by We the Italians, Nebiolo and her husband, Onorino, had previously emigrated to the US, where they ran restaurants and nightclubs before returning to their Italian roots.
Initially, the sandwich was simply referred to as a “paninetto,” but the name didn’t stick. Italian writer Gabriele D’Annunzio, reportedly disliking the English word “sandwich,” rechristened it tramezzino. He reasoned that it was the perfect snack to enjoy “between meals, whenever one wants,” and the name, derived from the architectural term “tramezze” (partition walls), aptly described the two slices of bread encasing the filling. Today, Turin boasts around 50 different tramezzino variations, including fillings like truffle and lobster.
A Regional Affair: Variations Across Italy
While Turin is considered the birthplace, the tramezzino has evolved with regional variations. In Venice, there’s even some debate over Turin’s claim to origin, with some suggesting the city’s humid climate contributes to the bread’s softness. However, Maurizio Dall’Osto notes that maintaining moisture is a common practice throughout Italy, keeping the bread from drying out. According to ORF, the classic Venetian tramezzino features a soft bread base filled with mayonnaise, tuna, and small onions, or combinations of tuna, eggs, ham, and mushrooms.
Further east, in the Gorizia region, the tramezzino takes on a flatter form. Popular fillings include artichokes, porchetta (roasted pork), and crab meat, alongside San Daniele and Sauris prosciutto and local cheeses. The secret, according to Dall’Osto, lies in the homemade mayonnaise, which adds a unique flavor. Vegetarian options are also available, featuring “Rosa di Gorizia,” a winter radicchio with a slightly bitter taste.
A Historical Parallel: From Ancient Rome to Modern Italy
The tramezzino’s roots extend further back in history than the 20th century. In Rome’s ancient Suburra district, the Via Panisperna – literally “bread and ham” – suggests that simple bread-and-meat combinations were enjoyed centuries ago. This historical connection highlights the enduring appeal of a quick, satisfying meal.
The tramezzino is often enjoyed with a glass of Ribolla Gialla wine from the Collio Goriziano region, making it a popular choice for apericena – a pre-dinner gathering with friends. Its convenience and versatility have cemented its place as a beloved Italian snack.
As the tramezzino celebrates its centennial, it continues to evolve and adapt to modern tastes, remaining a testament to Italian culinary ingenuity. The simple sandwich, born from a desire for a convenient and satisfying meal, has turn into a cultural icon, enjoyed by generations of Italians and increasingly appreciated by food lovers worldwide.
What recent and innovative fillings will grace the tramezzino in its next century? Share your favorite tramezzino combinations and memories in the comments below!