Entertainment

Milan Fashion Week kicked off with a significant moment: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for Fendi. The highly anticipated debut, eight months after her departure from Dior, wasn’t just a showcase of clothes; it was a statement. Chiuri, a Roman native who previously spent a decade at Fendi early in her career, presented a collection steeped in the brand’s heritage while subtly signaling a shift in aesthetic, one that prioritizes a collaborative, “less me, more us” approach to fashion.

The runway itself set the tone, emblazoned with the phrase “Less I, more us” in both English and Italian. This motto, Chiuri explained, is a celebration of the proud matriarchal history of Fendi, a house led by four generations of women – Adele Fendi, her five daughters, granddaughter Silvia Venturini Fendi, and great-granddaughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi. While marking a break from the family’s direct leadership, Chiuri positioned herself as an upholder of Fendi tradition, emphasizing the “female way of doing fashion, and also the Italian way of doing fashion, which is about sharing ideas, and craftsmanship, and working in freedom.”

Chiuri’s arrival at Fendi is a headline-making event, given her success at Dior, where revenues reportedly almost quadrupled over seven years. Her debut collection reflected this established identity and values. The show opened with an all-black ensemble – a chevron-printed organza shirt dress with a pleated skirt worn beneath an oversized blazer – setting a tone of understated elegance. The collection continued with a focus on suiting for both men and women, alongside romantic, shin-grazing lace dresses.

The Italian designer dressed models in oversized black blazers, jeans with trenchcoats, and cargo pants with trainers. Photograph: Antonio Calanni/AP

A Nod to Fendi’s Past, A Vision for the Future

Chiuri’s collection wasn’t about radical reinvention, but rather a thoughtful evolution. She revisited the legacy of the five Fendi sisters, who transformed their parents’ fur and leather shop into a global brand in the 1940s. This historical connection was further emphasized by the inclusion of archival fur, repurposed in a new atelier, addressing the ethical concerns surrounding the material. “Fur is exceptionally durable,” Chiuri stated, “To me, fur can be about the softness and sensuality of Fendi.”

The spirit of another pivotal figure in Fendi’s history, Karl Lagerfeld, was also palpable. Lagerfeld, hired in 1965, streamlined and modernized the brand, famously designing the double F logo – representing “Fun Fur.” Chiuri paid homage to Lagerfeld’s influence by incorporating starched white collars into evening gowns and striped scarves emblazoned with “5 SISTERS,” a nod to the Fendi family.

The Baguette Returns and a Focus on Practicality

A key element of the show was the re-emergence of the iconic Baguette bag, a Fendi staple made famous by its appearance on Sex and the City. Chiuri presented a striking new iteration – a red-and-ivory zebra striped version with a snake print strap – signaling a potential resurgence in popularity for the beloved accessory. The collection as a whole leaned towards practicality, with models carrying two bags – a stylish handbag paired with a larger tote – reflecting the needs of modern women.

Chiuri, who was a co-designer of the original Baguette bag in the 1990s, also played with silhouettes, repeating ensembles in different variations, such as a fur-trimmed vest paired with a graphic T-shirt and cargo shorts. Color was used sparingly, with a focus on black and white, punctuated by occasional pops of color like a football jersey tucked under a blazer or a single red slip dress.

Addressing the Industry’s Gender Imbalance

Beyond the clothes themselves, Chiuri’s debut also touched upon broader issues within the fashion industry. In a conversation with Vogue, she pointed out the double standard faced by female designers, noting that while a male designer’s financial success is attributed to business acumen, a woman’s is often dismissed as simply being “commercial.” “It’s a mentality. It’s cultural!” she emphasized. This observation underscores the ongoing challenges women face in achieving equal recognition and respect in a traditionally male-dominated field.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for Fendi wasn’t just a fashion show; it was a declaration of intent. It was a celebration of heritage, a nod to the past, and a vision for a future where collaboration, craftsmanship, and the female perspective grab center stage. The industry will be watching closely to observe how this new chapter unfolds for the iconic Italian brand.

What remains to be seen is how Chiuri will expand upon this foundation, particularly with her upcoming menswear show in June. Her approach to menswear will undoubtedly be scrutinized, given her pointed comments about the industry’s biases. The coming seasons promise to be a fascinating evolution for Fendi under her leadership.

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