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The world of fresh produce lost a vibrant voice with the passing of Charlie Hicks, a fourth-generation supplier from London’s covent Garden market and the beloved host of the radio programme “Veg Talk.” The show, which captivated listeners from 1998 to 2005, wasn’t simply a market report; it was a party of seasonal ingredients and the people who grew them.
The Rise of “Veg Talk”
Sheila Dillon,a broadcast journalist,first encountered Hicks while researching a segment on where chefs sourced their ingredients. Dillon, struck by Charlie’s extensive knowledge, excited delivery, and ability to connect with audiences, proposed the idea for “Veg Talk” to Radio 4. The program quickly gained a following, featuring not only Charlie’s insightful market reports but also weekly spotlights on specific vegetables and engaging discussions with prominent culinary figures like Angela Hartnett, Alastair Little, Rose Grey, Darina Allen, and Mitch Tonks.
Despite some criticism – notably from broadcaster Andy Kershaw who publicly questioned the show’s merit – “Veg Talk” found a dedicated audience drawn to Hicks’s lifetime of expertise and approachable style.He wasn’t just reporting on produce; he was sharing a deep understanding of its origins, cultivation, and culinary applications.
What is the traditional method for preparing puntarelle salad in Rome?
charlie Hicks, Veg Talk, and the Bitter-Sweet puntarelle Salad
The Rise of Root-to-Stem cooking
Chef Charlie Hicks, a prominent figure in the modern British culinary scene, has been championing a ideology of “root-to-stem” cooking for years. This approach, gaining traction globally, isn’t just about reducing waste; it’s about unlocking hidden flavors and textures often overlooked in traditional cooking. Hicks’ dedication to utilizing every part of the vegetable – from leaves to stalks – has significantly influenced contemporary restaurant menus and home kitchens alike. His work often features on platforms like Veg Talk, a popular online resource dedicated to plant-based cuisine and sustainable food practices.
Puntarelle: A Roman Specialty
Central to understanding Hicks’ ethos is his embrace of less common, yet incredibly flavorful, vegetables. One such example is puntarelle, a chicory variety originating from the Lazio region of Italy, particularly around Rome.Often described as having a slightly bitter, yet refreshing taste, puntarelle isn’t widely available outside of Italy, making it a prized ingredient for chefs like Hicks who prioritize unique and seasonal produce. It’s a member of the chicory family, related to radicchio and endive, but possesses a distinctively crisp texture and elongated, spear-like leaves.
The Traditional Puntarelle Salad: A Roman Staple
The classic Roman puntarelle salad (Insalata di Puntarelle) is deceptively simple.It relies on the quality of the puntarelle itself and a vibrant,anchovy-based dressing. Here’s a breakdown of the traditional preparation:
- Preparing the Puntarelle: The outer, tougher leaves are discarded. The tender, pale inner stalks are thinly sliced lengthwise, than immersed in ice water for several hours (or overnight) to curl and crisp. This crucial step removes some of the bitterness and enhances the texture.
- The Dressing: The dressing is a potent blend of:
* Extra virgin olive oil
* Red wine vinegar
* Anchovy fillets (mashed into a paste)
* garlic (finely minced)
* Red chili flakes (optional, for a touch of heat)
- Assembly: The crisped puntarelle is drained and tossed with the dressing. Some variations include shaved Pecorino Romano cheese.
Charlie Hicks’ Modern Take on Puntarelle
While respecting the tradition,Charlie Hicks often elevates the puntarelle salad with subtle yet impactful modifications. He’s known to experiment with:
* Citrus: Incorporating citrus zest (lemon or orange) into the dressing to brighten the flavors.
* Nuts: Adding toasted almonds or pine nuts for textural contrast.
* Herbs: Finely chopped parsley or mint to complement the bitterness.
* Fermented Elements: Introducing a touch of fermented chili paste or capers for umami depth.
Hicks’ approach isn’t about reinventing the wheel, but rather refining and enhancing a classic, showcasing the vegetable’s versatility. He frequently discusses these techniques on Veg Talk and in his cooking demonstrations.
Benefits of Eating Puntarelle
Beyond it’s unique flavor, puntarelle offers several nutritional benefits:
* Rich in Vitamins: A good source of vitamin K, Vitamin C, and folate.
* High in Fiber: Promotes digestive health.
* Antioxidant Properties: Contains compounds that help protect against cell damage.
* Low in Calories: A healthy addition to any diet.
Sourcing puntarelle: Where to Find It
Finding puntarelle can be challenging. Here are a few options:
* Specialty Grocery Stores: Italian delis and specialty produce markets are your best bet.
* Farmers Markets: During the chicory season (typically winter and early spring), some farmers markets may carry puntarelle.
* Online Retailers: Several online retailers specialize in hard-to-find produce.
* Grow Your Own: For the dedicated gardener, puntarelle seeds are available for purchase.
Practical tips for Working with Puntarelle
* Ice Water is Key: Don’t skip the ice water bath! It’s essential for achieving the characteristic crispness.
* Taste as You Go: Puntarelle’s bitterness can vary. Adjust the dressing accordingly.
* Don’t Overdress: A light coating of dressing is all you need.
* Serve Immediately: Puntarelle salad is best enjoyed fresh, as it can wilt over time.
**Recent Incident Regarding Charlie Kirk (January 20
