The Shrinking Shopping List: How the Demand for ‘Real Food’ is Reshaping the Grocery Aisle
Kerry Clayton, a mother of two and small business owner, used to spend hours navigating supermarket aisles, meticulously checking labels for gluten, citrus, and tomato – ingredients her family must avoid. Her story, increasingly common, highlights a seismic shift underway in the food industry: a growing consumer rebellion against ultra-processed foods (UPF) and a surge in demand for simpler, more recognizable ingredient lists. But is this a healthy trend, or a case of good intentions leading to unintended nutritional consequences?
The Rise of the ‘Only’ Range and the UPF Debate
The launch of Marks & Spencer’s ‘Only’ range – products with six ingredients or fewer – was a revelation for Clayton. Despite the higher price tag (corn flakes at £2.50 for 325g versus 90p for 500g of standard flakes), she found it a worthwhile trade-off. “It’s about normal for us,” she explains, emphasizing the peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what’s in her family’s food. This sentiment is fueling a broader trend, spurred by concerns raised in Dr. Chris Van Tulleken’s 2023 book, “Ultra-Processed People”, which explores the potential health implications of heavily processed diets.
Retailers Respond: A 40% Surge in Demand for Simpler Ingredients
The response from retailers has been swift. Matthew Hopkins, founder of IND!E, a platform connecting small food brands with major retailers, reports a 40% increase in inquiries for products with fewer ingredients over the past year. Ocado, Selfridges, and John Lewis are actively seeking out these simpler options, signaling a clear market shift. This isn’t just about catering to allergy sufferers; it’s about tapping into a growing segment of consumers prioritizing health and transparency.
Beyond Allergies: The Appeal of ‘Real Food’
Plant-based brand THIS is capitalizing on this trend with its new ‘Super Superfoods’ range, focusing on natural ingredients like beans, seeds, and mushrooms. The company acknowledges that consumer hesitation around the processed nature of many meat alternatives is a key driver. However, the narrative isn’t straightforward. Luke Byrne, THIS’s innovation and sustainability director, points out the nutritional benefits of their products – high protein, high fiber, low in saturated fat and sugar – despite their classification as UPF. This highlights a crucial point: the UPF label doesn’t automatically equate to unhealthy.
The Nutritional Paradox: Are We Throwing the Baby Out with the Bathwater?
Nutritionist Dr. Laura Wyness cautions against blindly embracing the ‘less is more’ approach. She argues that the M&S ‘Only’ range, while appealing, prioritizes “hype over health” by omitting fortified nutrients. “We should be encouraging more nutrient-dense foods and fortifying products like plant milks and cereals,” she emphasizes. This raises a critical question: are we sacrificing essential nutrients in the pursuit of simplicity?
Redefining ‘Processed’: It’s Not Always a Bad Thing
Dr. Jibin He, head of science at Teesside University, goes further, suggesting the term ‘UPF’ is a flawed indicator of health. He argues that processing is essential for food safety, shelf life, and waste reduction, particularly in feeding a growing global population. He uses tofu as an example – a highly nutritious, environmentally friendly protein source that is, nonetheless, classified as UPF. “Many food products have extremely complex formulas, and a manufacturer may not fully understand the functions of each listed ingredient,” Dr. He notes, advocating for a closer examination of ingredient lists and the adoption of novel processing technologies.
The Price of Purity: Higher Costs and Marketing Strategies
Creating less processed products isn’t cheap. 3Bears, a premium porridge brand partnering with footballer Harry Kane, charges £3.99 for 250g of its oat cinnamon loops (seven ingredients) compared to £2.50 for 300g of M&S’s five-ingredient version and £1.25 for Waitrose’s 22-ingredient hoops. Caroline Nichols, 3Bears co-founder, explains the higher price reflects the challenges of achieving the desired texture and crunchiness with minimal ingredients. Expect to see increased marketing emphasizing the virtues of less processed foods – and justifying their premium price points.
The Confectionery Exception: Treats May Be Immune to the UPF Backlash
Interestingly, some categories seem less susceptible to the UPF scrutiny. The UK confectionery market, worth £14.8 billion, continues to thrive despite its high proportion of ultra-processed products. Little Moons, the popular ice cream ball brand, exports to 35 countries despite listing over 30 ingredients on some flavors. Ross Farquhar, Little Moons’ marketing director, believes that certain ingredients are necessary for stability and shelf life, and that consumers aren’t willing to compromise on the core attributes they love.
Looking Ahead: A Hybrid Future for Food
The future of food likely won’t be a complete rejection of processing, but rather a more nuanced approach. Expect to see continued innovation in processing technologies that allow for simpler formulas and greater nutritional retention. Transparency will be key, with consumers demanding clear and concise ingredient lists. The challenge for food manufacturers will be balancing the desire for ‘real food’ with the practicalities of affordability, scalability, and – crucially – maintaining nutritional value. The demand for simpler ingredients is here to stay, but the definition of ‘processed’ is evolving, and the conversation is far from over.
What changes are you making to your grocery shopping habits in response to the growing awareness of ultra-processed foods? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
