Valencia’s annual ‘Crida’—the call to the Fallas festivities—is a moment steeped in tradition and this year’s iteration saw fallera mayor Marta Mercader debut a stunning ensemble that’s as much a tribute to her family history as it is a showcase of Valencian artistry. The outfit, unveiled as she descended from her home, features a unique silk fabric dubbed “Maribel,” a color described as apple green, and a meticulously crafted peineta (comb) brimming with symbolic meaning.
The creation of Mercader’s attire represents a special collaboration between two branches of the renowned Flor d’Aigua-Flor de Cotó atelier, a fixture in the ‘Crida’ for the past two decades. The firm has long been celebrated for its exquisite peinetas, the “d’Aigua” element of the fallera’s gaze, but this year also crafted the entire suit itself, from the workshop known as “de Cotó.” This marks a particularly personal touch, as Flor d’Aigua-Flor de Cotó has been Mercader’s preferred indumentarista (clothing designer) since her time as fallera mayor of Alberic-Heroi Romeu.
The heart of the ensemble is the “Maribel” silk, a narrow lampazo (a type of patterned silk) dyed in a vibrant apple green hue. According to reports, the design was reproduced from an antique espolín (a pattern sample) discovered in the archives of Compañia Valenciana de la Seda. The choice of fabric is a direct nod to Mercader’s family, with “Maribel” being a significant name within her lineage. The pattern itself draws inspiration from 18th-century French designs, incorporating striped textures reminiscent of an antique jubón (jacket) and adorned with buttons from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
“A deep search led us to the discovery of a retal espolinado (a patterned remnant) from the archive that Marta fell in love with instantly,” the silk workshop stated, as reported by Levante-EMV. “This piece allowed us to create a fresh design in the highest quality of mechanical fabrics that we know as Lampazo.”
The accompanying accessories further enhance the outfit’s narrative. The manteletas (lace shawls) are from Viana, while the aderezo (jewelry) is the work of Paco Artola. This piece is inspired by a delicate basket, a motif that holds significance for many families in the city, including the Mercader family. It’s crafted from silver plated in gold and finished with peridot olivine “tears.” The ahuecador (underskirt) and enagua (petticoat) were created by Margarita Vercher, and the shoes, inspired by French designs, feature stripes that echo the fabric’s pattern.
Perhaps the most personal element of the ensemble is the peineta, designed by Guillermo Expósito. The comb, a new form that will now bear Mercader’s name, features a design inspired by the Mercado de Abastos (Central Market), where Mercader resides. The intricate detailing replicates the shield of the city as it appears on the market’s azulejo (tilework), a view Mercader enjoys daily from her balcony.
The creation of this year’s ‘Crida’ attire is a testament to the enduring traditions of Valencian craftsmanship and the deeply personal connections woven into each garment. The combination of historical inspiration, family symbolism, and meticulous artistry makes Mercader’s ensemble a standout moment in this year’s festivities.
As the Fallas celebrations unfold, all eyes will be on the intricate details and symbolic weight carried by Mercader’s attire. The ‘Crida’ marks a pivotal moment in the festivities, and her ensemble sets a high bar for the artistry and tradition that will follow. The continued collaboration between established ateliers like Flor d’Aigua-Flor de Cotó and the falleras ensures that these traditions will continue to thrive for years to come.
What are your thoughts on the symbolism and artistry of traditional Valencian fallera attire? Share your comments below and let us know what resonates with you most about this year’s ‘Crida’!
