The Unexpected Rise of Gliders: How ‘Slowing Down’ is the Future of Surfing
Forget chasing the biggest wave. A growing movement in surfing is proving that sometimes, the fastest path to exhilaration lies in deliberately slowing down. This isn’t a philosophical exercise; it’s the core principle behind the resurgence of long, flat “glider” surfboards – boards over 10 feet long that are redefining what’s possible in small, seemingly unrideable surf. And it’s a trend poised to reshape surfboard design and surfing technique for years to come.
Beyond the Cliche: The Mechanics of Momentum
The phrase “slow down to speed up” often feels like self-help fluff. But in the context of these gliders, it’s a surprisingly accurate description of the experience. As documented in Beth O’Rourke’s compelling short film, The Glory of the Glide, these boards aren’t about radical maneuvers. They’re about harnessing momentum. Their flat rocker and substantial length allow them to trim effortlessly across a wave’s face, generating speed from subtle shifts in weight and rail engagement. This isn’t about power surfing; it’s about efficient surfing.
The Skip Frye Influence and a Return to Roots
The revival of glider-style boards is deeply rooted in the legacy of San Diego surfer and shaper Skip Frye. Frye’s designs, dating back decades, prioritized flow and connection with the wave over aggressive performance. “You’re just standing there, but there’s a lot more to it than standing there,” Frye himself explains in the film. This emphasis on nuance – on feeling the wave and responding with minimal effort – is a stark contrast to the high-performance shortboarding that has dominated the sport for generations. It’s a return to a more fundamental understanding of wave riding.
Why Gliders Now? A Response to Crowds and Changing Conditions
Several factors are driving the growing popularity of gliders. Increasingly crowded lineups mean surfers are often forced to contend with less-than-ideal waves. Gliders excel in these conditions, offering a fun and engaging ride when traditional shortboards struggle. Furthermore, a growing awareness of sustainable surfing practices is leading some to embrace boards that require less energy and allow for a more mindful connection with the ocean. The simplicity of the glide appeals to surfers seeking a break from the constant pursuit of bigger, more technical waves.
The Subtle Art of Rail Work and Wave Connection
Erin Ashley, featured in the documentary, highlights the transformative effect gliders have on a surfer’s technique. “These boards really make you look at how you’re surfing and how you’re connecting waves,” she says. “Everything you’re doing, especially your rail work. And how every little movement makes more of a difference than the big movement.” This focus on precision and subtlety is a key takeaway. Gliders demand a refined approach, forcing surfers to become more attuned to the nuances of wave dynamics. It’s a masterclass in efficiency.
Beyond Recreation: Gliders and the Future of Surfboard Design
The impact of gliders extends beyond simply providing a fun ride in small surf. The principles behind their design – maximizing planing surface, minimizing rocker, and prioritizing flow – are influencing broader trends in surfboard shaping. We’re seeing a move towards more versatile boards that can perform in a wider range of conditions. Expect to see more hybrid designs incorporating elements of glider shapes, even in boards intended for more aggressive surfing. This isn’t about replacing shortboards; it’s about expanding the possibilities of surfboard design.
The Potential for Data-Driven Glider Optimization
Currently, glider design relies heavily on the intuition and experience of shapers like Frye and Josh Hall. However, the potential for data-driven optimization is significant. Sensors embedded in the board could track subtle movements, rail engagement, and wave dynamics, providing valuable insights into how to maximize performance. This data could then be used to refine designs and create gliders tailored to specific wave conditions and surfer skill levels. SwellInfo, for example, provides detailed wave data that could be integrated with such analysis.
The resurgence of gliders isn’t just a nostalgic throwback; it’s a forward-looking exploration of what surfing can be. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most profound experiences come from embracing simplicity, slowing down, and truly connecting with the power of the ocean. What are your predictions for the evolution of glider design and its impact on the broader surfing landscape? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
