Rincón, Puerto Rico – Recent swells have ignited the island’s northwest corner, delivering powerful waves and reinforcing Puerto Rico’s growing reputation as a premier surfing destination, often dubbed the “Hawaii of the Caribbean.” Although the island has long been a whispered secret among experienced wave riders, a recent influx of attention, coupled with ideal conditions, has brought its powerful “slab” waves into the spotlight.
Photographer Ryan “Chachi” Craig recently returned from a five-day trip to Puerto Rico, fresh off a stint in Hawaii and was met with what he described as “supreme conditions.” Craig, who was in Puerto Rico for a Quiksilver shoot, captured stunning images of the waves and the surfers who dared to tackle them. “I went over for a Quiksilver shoot the day after I got back for Hawaii and we scored a few days of really good swell. Since I was there for a specific job, I didn’t bring my housing but was stoked to be there for the swell,” Craig said.
The waves, known as “slabs,” are notoriously fickle, requiring a specific swell direction and a deep understanding of local conditions. Local surfers like Dwight Pastrana and Mauro Diaz were among those who capitalized on the swell, scoring impressive barrels. Craig recounted witnessing Diaz’s dedication, stating, “Mauro was super on it, he was out in the dark before first light. I got to the beach at sunrise and didn’t even have time to set up my tripod before seeing him pull into a meaty one before anyone else was even in the water.”
Craig emphasized the unique challenges and rewards of surfing in Puerto Rico. “I really lucked out since it was such a short trip, everything came together for two days. A lot of the slabs in that region are highly fickle, the locals are obviously dialed and they hold it down too. You can’t just blow in and snag set waves. It’s not like Hawaii where the trades are often offshore, the variability is a lot higher in Puerto Rico. When it does line up though, it delivers like Hawaii.”
The swell similarly drew in surfers from further afield, including Kobe Hughes, who showcased his skill on the powerful waves. Hughes, known for riding self-shaped equipment or boards from his cousin Ryan Burch, quickly integrated with the local surfing community. Sebastian Soto also made his mark, boosting out of the finish section of a powerful wave, as captured by Craig’s lens.
Puerto Rico’s Surfing Ecosystem
The rising popularity of Puerto Rican surf is not only attracting skilled surfers but also boosting the local economy. The Quiksilver “Repeater” project, which features Griffin Colapinto, Andy Nieblas, Mikey Wright, Kael Walsh, Lungi Slabb, Rolo Montes, and Al Cleland Jr., has helped to showcase the island’s potential to a wider audience, as reported by The Surfers View. The island’s surfing scene is built on a collaborative spirit, where local knowledge is freely shared.
As noted in Memesita.com, Puerto Rico’s surfing story extends beyond just barreling waves. The island has been a well-kept secret for years, but is now gaining recognition as a destination for serious wave riders. The recent swells have highlighted the northwest corner of the island, but the surfing community and its unique character are what truly set it apart.
The future of surfing in Puerto Rico looks promising, but maintaining the balance between tourism and preserving the local culture will be key. The island’s unique conditions and the dedication of its local surfers continue to draw attention, solidifying its place as a rising star in the world of surfing. What comes next will depend on continued respect for the ocean and the collaborative spirit that defines the Puerto Rican surf scene.
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