image source,Nine
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- Author, BBC Russian correspondent
- Role,
In a forest near the tourist resort of Gokarna in India, a blond and barefoot child was spotted wandering among the trees. With a population of just over 25,000, this town not only attracts tourists but is also a holy place for many pilgrims.
When the local police launched an investigation, they discovered something unexpected: a Russian woman—Nina Kutina—and her two daughters, aged five and six, were living in a cave, surrounded by handicrafts and natural landscaping.
“We have never lived in a cave before,” Kutina, 40, told the BBC.
Then why is she here?
Kutina said she and her two daughters lived in the cave for nine months. During this time, her son Luchezar lived with a friend in the neighboring state of Arambol, a few hours away, and attended school there.
The cave is located in the forest but close enough to Gokarna town to buy fruits. Kutina said that they do not eat meat and their two daughters have been vegetarians since birth. Because of this “natural lifestyle”, they have never gotten sick.
“It’s a place of pilgrimage for many people, and it’s very interesting,” she said. “We come to explore. We love nature and have lived all over the world – in forests and jungles. Living in a cave is just a new experience.”
Kutina told the BBC that she chose to live in the cave to mourn her eldest son, Dmitry. He died in a car accident in Goa in September 2024, and she described it as a period of “extreme grief”.
She built a bed out of wooden planks, covered it with straw mats, and decorated the cave with family artifacts.
Police said the family “looked quite at home” in the cave when they were found, but still tried to convince Kutina that living with children in the forest was dangerous because of snakes and wild animals and the possibility of landslides during the rainy season.
She later wrote on her Telegram channel: “No snake has harmed us, no animal has attacked us. For many years, we have only been afraid of humans.”
But police said Kutina’s visa documents had expired and the family was currently being sent to an immigration center.
Kutina told the BBC that since her son’s death she was “no longer able to deal with” the document issue.
By September, they were deported back to Russia—to the world she once knew.
image source,Nine
Kutina said that she was born in Leningrad (now St. Petersburg), studied in the Siberian city of Krasnoyarsk for about eight years, and then traveled throughout Russia and lived in Ukraine, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Costa Rica, Nepal, and finally came to India.
She has a degree in education but worked as an interior designer in Moscow before leaving Russia 15 years ago with her eldest son Dmitry.
“I don’t want to live in a concrete apartment in Moscow. I want to live by the sea, so that my children can run on the beach, see the world, and live a more interesting and healthy life,” Kutina said.
Abroad, she gave birth to Luceza, and later gave birth to two daughters, Ama and Prema. She told the BBC that both girls were born at home without medical assistance. She described the family as very close.
“I am with the children 24 hours a day. I have an educational background, an artistic background, and I am also a musician,” she said.
Kutina said she spent many years “living in harmony with nature under the open sky.”
On her Telegram channel “PecheRNaYa ZhizN” (roughly translated as “Cave Life”), she once advertised knitting classes, saying that she taught painting and sculpture even in the detention center.
One of her acquaintances in India, Vasily Kondrashov, described her as “somewhat a legend.” Kutina first took her children to live in the jungles of northern Goa about a decade ago.
Kondrashov once visited her and observed her living pattern: “Between the huge roots of a large tropical tree, Nina built two rooms with fabrics – one is the living room with an altar; the other is the bedroom.” He said.
“There is a stream under the tree, forming a small natural pool. It is paved with clay around it, and there are handmade seats, fires, tableware and children’s toys. I asked her: ‘Aren’t you afraid of snakes?’ She replied: ‘There are two snakes living near our house, and we are very familiar with each other.'”
image source,Nine
Kutina said she asked the authorities to release her on bail and allow her to return to the rented house, but she and her two daughters were eventually sent to a women’s detention center near Bengaluru, while her son was sent to a nearby shelter. She said it pained her.
She told the BBC that conditions in the detention centers were far worse than caves.
Kutina described conditions there as “absolutely like torture” and claimed staff stole food and belongings and confiscated her son’s ashes, which she kept in the cave, and never returned them.
“They (the police) said they were trying to protect us from wild animals. But in fact, by putting us in that center, they were exposing us to giant cockroaches that crawled over us at night,” she said. “They thought they saved the children from hunger and cold, but in the cave I could cook delicious food for them; in the center, they were hungry and malnourished.”
The BBC sought confirmation from the Indian authorities. P. Manivannan, Director of the Department of Social Welfare of the Karnataka State of India, responded to BBC Hindi: “We have taken the allegations of this Russian citizen very seriously and have asked the deputy magistrate and assistant magistrate of Tumakuru County to investigate and submit a report. If the allegations are true, we will take immediate corrective actions.”
Another unnamed official told the BBC: “Preliminary investigations indicate that the allegations of property theft are exaggerated. We will await a formal report from senior officials.”
image source,Nine
An Indian official told the BBC that Kutina had contacted the Russian embassy to request assistance in returning to the country, but the process was delayed by an Israeli businessman named Dror Shlomo Goldstein. Goldstein filed a lawsuit in court, claiming that he was the father of Amma and Prema, asking the court to prevent them from being sent back to Russia.
Goldstein wrote on social media: “In recent years, it has become increasingly difficult for me to contact them (the two girls). Even when I found them, they seemed distant and said that I abandoned them before they were born. But I never stopped loving them.”
He told the BBC that he hoped to fight for joint custody, but the court required a DNA test and he was unable to obtain the results before the mother and daughter left India.
Kutina declined to comment on Goldstein, saying only that she was “no longer in contact with that man.”
She told the BBC that she currently lives in Moscow with relatives. Instead of sending her children to school, she plans to homeschool them. She said she still enjoys walking in the forest with her daughter, but is also looking to the future – getting new paperwork so she can continue taking her children to new places and on new journeys.
Additional reporting by BBC Hindi reporter Imran Qureshi
How did Irina’s initial tourist visit evolve into a long-term residency near the Ajanta and Ellora caves?
Table of Contents
- 1. How did Irina’s initial tourist visit evolve into a long-term residency near the Ajanta and Ellora caves?
- 2. russian Woman Reflects on Life in Indian Caves and Her Return Home
- 3. The Allure of Ajanta and Ellora: A Spiritual Retreat
- 4. Life Within the Caves: Daily Routines and Challenges
- 5. Building Community: Relationships with Locals
- 6. the decision to Return: Homesickness and Practical Considerations
- 7. Reflections on a Transformative Experience
- 8. The Growing Trend of Long-Term Travel in India
russian Woman Reflects on Life in Indian Caves and Her Return Home
The Allure of Ajanta and Ellora: A Spiritual Retreat
for years, the ancient cave temples of Ajanta and Ellora in Maharashtra, India, have drawn spiritual seekers and history enthusiasts alike. But for Irina Volkova, a Russian woman, these UNESCO World Heritage sites became more than just a destination – they became home for an extended period. Irina’s story, a blend of cultural immersion, spiritual exploration, and the challenges of adapting to a drastically different lifestyle, offers a unique perspective on life in rural India and the pull of ancient traditions. her journey highlights the growing trend of spiritual tourism in India and the increasing interest in Buddhist cave art.
Life Within the Caves: Daily Routines and Challenges
Irina’s decision to reside near the caves wasn’t impulsive. Driven by a long-held captivation with Buddhism and Indian philosophy, she initially arrived as a tourist in 2018. However, the serenity and energy of the region captivated her. She eventually secured permission to live in a small, unused section of a cave near Ellora, forging a connection with the local community.
Her daily life was a stark contrast to her previous existence in Moscow.
* Simple Living: Irina embraced a minimalist lifestyle, relying on basic necessities and the generosity of nearby villagers. Her accommodation lacked modern amenities – no running water,electricity was sporadic,and sanitation was rudimentary.
* Dietary Adjustments: Adapting to the local vegetarian cuisine was a significant change. She learned to cook conventional Maharashtrian dishes, incorporating lentils, rice, and locally grown vegetables. Indian vegetarian food became a staple.
* Language Barrier: Initially, communication was a major hurdle. Irina diligently learned Marathi,the local language,and Hindi,enabling her to interact more effectively with the community. Learning Marathi proved crucial for integration.
* Cultural Immersion: She actively participated in local festivals and ceremonies, gaining a deeper understanding of Indian customs and traditions. This included observing Hindu festivals and learning about local deities.
Building Community: Relationships with Locals
Irina’s integration wasn’t without its challenges, but her genuine respect for the local culture and her willingness to learn fostered strong relationships. She became notably close to a family who owned a small tea stall near the Ellora caves. They provided her with support, guidance, and a sense of belonging.
* Mutual Exchange: Irina, in turn, shared her knowledge of Russian language and culture, offering informal lessons to local children.
* Healthcare Access: Access to healthcare was a concern. She relied on traditional Ayurvedic medicine and the assistance of local doctors for minor ailments. Serious medical issues required travel to Aurangabad, the nearest major city.
* The Role of Spirituality: Her shared interest in spirituality, particularly Buddhism, served as a common ground for connection with many villagers. Discussions about Buddhist philosophy and meditation were frequent.
the decision to Return: Homesickness and Practical Considerations
After five years, Irina made the difficult decision to return to Russia in late 2023. While she cherished her time in India, several factors contributed to her choice.
* Family Ties: increasingly, she felt the pull of family and the desire to reconnect with loved ones. Homesickness became a significant emotional factor.
* Practical Challenges: Maintaining a lasting lifestyle in the caves presented ongoing challenges. The lack of consistent income and the difficulties of accessing essential services weighed on her.
* Changing Circumstances: Increased tourism to the Ellora caves, while beneficial for the local economy, also brought changes to the peaceful surroundings she had come to appreciate.
* visa Regulations: Navigating Indian visa requirements for long-term stays also presented logistical hurdles.
Reflections on a Transformative Experience
Irina’s experience underscores the profound impact that immersive travel can have on an individual. She describes her time in India as a period of intense personal growth and spiritual awakening.
* Shift in Perspective: Living with limited resources and embracing a simpler way of life fundamentally altered her values and priorities.
* Increased Resilience: Overcoming the challenges of adapting to a new culture and environment strengthened her resilience and adaptability.
* Deeper Understanding of Buddhism: Her proximity to the ancient Buddhist cave temples allowed her to deepen her understanding of Buddhist teachings and practices. Buddhist meditation became a daily practice.
* Appreciation for Cultural Diversity: Her experience fostered a profound appreciation for cultural diversity and the interconnectedness of humanity.
The Growing Trend of Long-Term Travel in India
Irina’s story isn’t unique.India is increasingly attracting long-term travelers and expats seeking spiritual enrichment, cultural immersion, and a slower pace of life. This trend is fueled by:
* Affordability: The relatively low cost of living in India makes it an attractive destination for budget-conscious travelers.
* Spiritual Heritage: India’s rich spiritual heritage, encompassing
