Soeur Plants Flag in Marylebone: French Brand’s London Expansion a Test for Global Ambitions
LONDON, UK – In a move signaling serious international intent, French fashion house Soeur has unveiled its largest store outside of France, a 200-square-meter flagship in London’s Marylebone district. This isn’t just another boutique opening; it’s a key test for the brand’s ambitious growth strategy, as it navigates a challenging retail landscape and aims to reach €100 million in sales. This is breaking news for the fashion and retail sectors, and a story Archyde is following closely.
From Parisian Roots to Global Reach
Founded in 2008 by sisters Domitille and Angélique Brion, Soeur carved a niche with its feminine designs, androgynous lines, and a price point positioned below strict luxury. The brand’s journey has been marked by strategic investment. A 2016 minority stake from Experienced Capital fueled initial growth, followed by Style Capital acquiring around 80% in 2017, setting a clear target: €100 million in sales within three years, with a particular focus on accessories. While that initial timeline proved ambitious, Soeur is currently projecting around €80 million in turnover this year, with a comparable growth rate of 10%.
Navigating a Tightening Market
The retail environment, however, is becoming increasingly competitive. CEO Freja Day, who joined Soeur in 2019 after a decade at Inditex and a stint at Cartier, acknowledges the pressures from both above and below. “Luxury has increased prices a lot, which leaves us room, but at the same time there is pressure from below, from Shein towards Zara and from Zara towards other brands; space narrows,” she explains. Soeur’s strategy centers on delivering demonstrable value – improvements in fabric, color, and overall product quality – to justify price increases. This has led to recent investments in studio and model making, utilizing pattern makers with luxury brand experience.
London: The Second Paris?
London is currently the focal point of Soeur’s international expansion. The brand already operates boutiques in Shoreditch and King’s Road, a corner within Harvey Nichols, and now the Marylebone flagship. Day reports strong sales and a “very good and very loyal team” in the UK capital. The company anticipates London becoming its second-largest market by 2026, trailing only Paris. This careful, considered approach – prioritizing quality over rapid expansion – is a hallmark of Soeur’s strategy. It’s a lesson for any brand considering international growth: build a strong foundation before scaling.
Beyond the UK: A European and Asian Footprint
Soeur’s ambitions extend beyond the UK. The brand is solidifying its presence in Belgium (Brussels and Knokke), Italy (Milan, Rome, and a planned test in Padua), and Switzerland (Globus department stores and selective openings in Lausanne and Geneva). Spain is also a key focus, with a boutique in Madrid’s Salamanca neighborhood and presence in four El Corte Inglés centers. Interestingly, the Madrid store attracts a hybrid clientele, including affluent locals and Latin American shoppers.
In Asia, Soeur is taking a more measured approach. While it has 15-20 points of sale in China focused on high-image garments, expansion in South Korea will come through shop-in-shops within major department stores like Hyundai, Lotte, and Shinsegae.
The US Challenge and Future Innovations
The United States remains a significant, but complex, opportunity. While online sales are “very large,” Soeur has paused plans for physical stores following the end of the de minimis regime and the impact of new tariffs. The brand is now investing in internal expertise to navigate the intricacies of US import regulations. Looking ahead, Soeur is also focusing on innovation, developing a second-hand platform with Formo and forging long-term collaborations with partners like K-Way (technical fabrics) and Lido (swimwear).
Freja Day’s guiding principle – “explore techniques that we do not have within us, motivate teams and remember that the value of the brand always begins in the product” – encapsulates Soeur’s approach to growth. The Marylebone opening isn’t just about a new store; it’s about a brand refining its identity and preparing for a future where quality, value, and strategic partnerships are paramount. Stay tuned to Archyde for continued coverage of Soeur’s journey and the evolving landscape of global fashion retail.
