For centuries, the Great Wall of China has stood as a testament to the country’s enduring history and architectural prowess. Beyond the iconic, restored sections popular with tourists, a vast network of lesser-known fortifications stretches across 15 provinces, offering a glimpse into the wall’s complex and often-forgotten past. Recent efforts to promote these more remote areas are drawing visitors to sites that reveal the wall’s diverse construction and strategic importance.
In Gansu province, the “Turtle City,” officially known as the Yongtai Fortress, presents a unique example of Great Wall architecture. Completed in 1608 during the Ming Dynasty, the fortress once housed a garrison of 2,500 soldiers. Its nickname derives from its distinctive shape: the south gate resembles a head, with the east and west gates forming flippers, the oval wall representing the body, and the north gate serving as the tail. Today, it stands as one of the most well-preserved walled cities in China, offering a tangible connection to the past. Visitors can stay in Jingtai County and make a 30-minute taxi ride to the fortress, timing their visit to coincide with optimal lighting conditions for photography.
Local cuisine in Jingtai County provides another layer of cultural immersion. Specialties include five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles, both spicy vegetarian dishes. The Jingtai County People’s Square night market, boasting over 50 snack stalls, offers a more adventurous culinary experience. Access to the region is facilitated by Lanzhou, the provincial capital, which has an international airport and high-speed rail connections. The drive from Lanzhou to Yongtai Turtle City takes approximately 2.5 hours.
Closer to Beijing, the Mutianyu and Jiankou sections of the Great Wall offer contrasting experiences. These contiguous sections, spanning roughly 25 kilometers, represent classic examples of Ming Dynasty construction. Mutianyu, restored in the 1980s, provides a more accessible and commercialized experience, with a cable car available for those who prefer not to hike. To the west, Jiankou, known as the “wild wall,” remains unrestored and uncommercialized, though access has become discouraged due to safety concerns as of 2020. A night in the countryside near either section is recommended to fully appreciate the surroundings.
For those seeking accommodation near Mutianyu, The Brickyard offers comfortable lodging. Jiankou can be accessed via Xizhazi village, and visitors may have the opportunity to stay with historian William Lindesay and his family at The Barracks. The autumn and spring seasons provide particularly stunning views, with vibrant foliage and cherry blossoms enhancing the landscape. Restrictions on foreign tourists obtaining temporary driving licenses were relaxed in 2019, making self-driving a viable option, though hiring a car with a driver or utilizing the Mutianyu Special Tourism Bus from Dongzhimen Wai Bus Station are also possibilities.
Further west, in Shanxi province, the ruins of a Gothic church built in 1876 stand in stark contrast to the rammed-earth Great Wall at Bataizi village. Constructed under the direction of a German missionary, the church’s bell tower is the only remaining structure. A visit to Bataizi can be combined with a trip to Datong, home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Yungang Grottoes and the Hengshan Hanging Temple. Late summer offers ideal conditions for viewing the contrast between the wall and the surrounding green hills. Visitors can find lodgings in Bataizi village or in nearby Chicheng.
The Laoniuwan Fortress, where the Great Wall meets the Yellow River, is another notable site. Built in 1467, the fortress features the Wanghe Tower, constructed in 1544. A boat ride along the Yellow River provides a unique perspective on the wall and the surrounding landscape. Access to Laoniuwan is challenging via public transportation, making a rental car or private transport the most practical option.
Simatai, constructed beginning in 1373, is known for the Fairy Tower, a challenging but rewarding hike offering panoramic views. The nearby Wangjing Tower provides excellent vantage points for observing the Fairy Tower. Lodging options include Hobo Farm and Yatou’s Homestay. Access to Simatai is best achieved via Tangjiazhai village in Beijing’s Miyun district.
Finally, the piled-stone wall at Dushikou, in Hebei province, stands out for its unique construction method. Built during the reign of Emperor Jiajing (1507-1567), the wall reaches seven meters in height in some areas. July and August offer ideal conditions for visiting, with lush green grasslands and cool evenings. Local specialties include lamb skewers, roast leg of lamb, and oat noodles. Access to Dushikou has been improved by infrastructure built for the 2022 Winter Olympics, and can be reached by bus from Beijing’s Liuliqiao Transport Hub, followed by a taxi ride.