From Vineyards to Umami: How a Bordeaux Estate Found Success in Soy Sauce
Forget the pivot – this is a transformation. In a world where even established wine regions are facing existential threats, a Bordeaux estate has discovered an unlikely path to prosperity: crafting artisanal soy sauce. What began as a desperate attempt to save a failing vineyard has blossomed into a celebrated condiment, gracing the tables of France’s most prestigious restaurants and signaling a potential revolution in agricultural diversification.
The Bordeaux-Japan Connection: A Legacy of Tradition
The story begins in 2021, when Adrien David Beaulieu, scion of the esteemed Château de Coutet, and his partner, Madina Querre, acquired a vineyard in Sainte-Terre, near Saint-Émilion. Facing the realities of a changing market, they knew simply producing wine wouldn’t be enough. A chance introduction to Toshiro Shinko, an 800-year veteran of soy sauce production from Yuasa, Japan – the birthplace of the condiment – offered an unexpected solution. Shinko, participating in a French government initiative to promote Japanese culture, found common ground with the winemakers.
“Master Shinko felt like we were cousins,” explains Beaulieu, “because he still works according to ancestral methods and so do we. Château Coutet has never been chemically treated and we cultivate our vines according to the old method.” This shared commitment to tradition and quality formed the foundation of a remarkable collaboration.
Notre Sainte-Terre: A Winery Reborn
The decision was made to transform the Sainte-Terre vineyard into a soy sauce production facility, aptly named Notre Sainte-Terre. Shinko arrived in France in 2023, meticulously guiding Querre and Beaulieu through the intricate process. “Mr. Shinko is a character of rare finesse and kindness,” recalls Querre. “What is incredible is that he was especially keen to pass on his know-how. He taught us how to make soy sauce, step by step, as if he were relearning how to make it from A to Z.”
The initial investment proved wise. The first vintage, released in 2024, was an immediate success, quickly gaining traction with wine merchants and loyal Château Coutet customers. Production has doubled annually, with 35,000 20-centiliter vials projected for 2025, priced at €19 each. Today, soy sauce from Notre Sainte-Terre is featured in 80 Michelin-starred restaurants across France, including those helmed by renowned chefs Thierry Marx, Philippe Etchebest, Jérôme Schilling, and Stéphane Carrade.
Beyond Diversification: A Model for Sustainable Agriculture
This isn’t simply a story of a winery diversifying its product line; it’s a testament to the power of cultural exchange and a blueprint for sustainable regional economies. In return for sharing his expertise, Shinko received support in establishing Pavillon Yuasa, a Japanese gourmet restaurant in Bordeaux. Crucially, Querre and Beaulieu committed to sourcing 100% organic and local ingredients.
“We are very lucky to have met Master Shinko, we wanted this to be economically useful to the territory,” Querre emphasizes. Cereals and soybeans are sourced from a local farmer, and the brine used in fermentation utilizes salt harvested from the Île de Ré. To further solidify their commitment to sustainability, the estate has reduced its vineyard footprint to just one hectare, supplementing income with a newly planted fruit tree orchard.
The Rise of ‘Terroir’ in Condiments
The success of Notre Sainte-Terre highlights a growing trend: the application of ‘terroir’ principles – traditionally associated with wine – to other artisanal food products. Consumers are increasingly seeking authenticity, traceability, and a connection to the land. This demand is driving innovation and creating opportunities for producers willing to embrace unique, locally-sourced ingredients and traditional methods. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations emphasizes the importance of diversifying agricultural practices to build resilience against climate change and market fluctuations.
The Future of French Agriculture: Lessons from Sainte-Terre
The Notre Sainte-Terre story isn’t an isolated incident. Across France, and indeed globally, agricultural producers are exploring innovative diversification strategies. From lavender farms producing essential oils to olive groves crafting artisanal soaps, the trend towards value-added products is gaining momentum. This shift is driven by economic necessity, but also by a growing consumer desire for unique, high-quality experiences.
The Bordeaux estate’s success demonstrates that embracing tradition, fostering collaboration, and prioritizing sustainability can unlock unexpected opportunities. It’s a compelling case study for a future where French agriculture is defined not just by its iconic wines, but by a diverse range of exceptional, locally-produced goods. What other unexpected pairings of tradition and innovation will reshape the landscape of French gastronomy?