The Shifting Sands of Red Carpet Wristwear: What the 2024 Grammys Reveal About the Future of Men’s Luxury Watches
The resale value of a Rolex Daytona skyrocketed 300% in the last decade. But at this year’s Grammys, the usual parade of high-end timepieces felt…different. A surprising number of A-listers opted out of showcasing their collections, signaling a potential pivot in how men express status and style. This wasn’t just a fashion quirk; it’s a glimpse into a changing luxury landscape.
The Absent Icons and the Rise of the Unexpected
Traditionally, the Grammys red carpet has been a veritable horological exhibition. Tyler, the Creator, a known watch enthusiast, was conspicuously without a timepiece. Justin Bieber’s oversized suit obscured any wristwear, replaced by a statement lapel pin. Even Jay-Z, whose collection rivals a museum’s, remained watchless. This wasn’t a coincidence. It suggests a deliberate move away from overt displays of wealth, or perhaps a desire to redefine what constitutes a ‘power’ accessory.
However, the vacuum created by these absences wasn’t empty. New contenders emerged, notably Kaytranada sporting a Bvlgari Serpenti – a traditionally feminine design – and Terrace Martin with a vintage Rolex Daytona “Big Red.” These choices weren’t just about wearing a watch; they were about making a statement.
Breaking Gender Norms in Luxury Accessories
Kaytranada’s Serpenti is particularly noteworthy. For decades, the Bvlgari Serpenti has been marketed primarily towards women. Its appearance on a male artist of Kaytranada’s stature signals a broader trend: the blurring of gender lines in luxury accessories. As societal norms evolve, men are increasingly embracing designs previously considered ‘feminine,’ prioritizing personal style over traditional expectations. This is a significant shift for the watch industry, which has historically catered to a largely male demographic with masculine designs.
Beyond the Bling: A New Definition of Status
The move away from ostentatious displays of wealth, exemplified by the absent Rolexes and Pateks, could be attributed to several factors. Increased awareness of economic inequality, a growing preference for understated luxury, and a desire for authenticity are all potential drivers. The “ICE OUT” pin worn by Justin Bieber, while still a display of affluence, is a more subtle and arguably contemporary expression of status than a multi-million dollar watch.
This shift aligns with broader trends in the luxury market. Consumers, particularly younger generations, are increasingly valuing experiences and craftsmanship over simply owning expensive items. They’re seeking brands that align with their values and offer a sense of community. This is why we’re seeing a rise in demand for independent watchmakers and brands with a strong story to tell.
The Vintage Appeal: A Counterpoint to Mass Production
Terrace Martin’s choice of a vintage Rolex Daytona “Big Red” also speaks to this trend. Vintage watches offer a unique combination of history, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. They represent a rejection of mass production and a celebration of enduring quality. The market for vintage timepieces has been booming in recent years, fueled by collectors seeking pieces with a story and a patina that can’t be replicated. Hodinkee’s 2023 vintage watch market report details this surge in demand and the increasing prices for iconic models.
What This Means for the Future of Men’s Watches
The 2024 Grammys weren’t just about the watches worn (or not worn); they were about the message sent. Expect to see several key trends emerge in the coming years:
- Gender-Fluid Designs: More brands will experiment with designs that appeal to a wider range of genders, breaking down traditional boundaries.
- Emphasis on Craftsmanship and Storytelling: Consumers will prioritize brands with a strong heritage and a commitment to quality.
- The Continued Rise of Vintage: The demand for vintage watches will continue to grow, driving up prices and fueling the restoration market.
- Subtle Statements of Luxury: Overt displays of wealth will become less common, replaced by more understated and sophisticated expressions of style.
The future of men’s luxury watches isn’t about simply owning the most expensive timepiece; it’s about expressing individuality, appreciating craftsmanship, and making a statement that reflects personal values. The Grammys, surprisingly, offered a compelling preview of this evolving landscape.
What are your predictions for the future of men’s luxury watches? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

