A latest cookbook, “The Art and Science of Tempura,” authored by Japanese culinary expert Atsushi Kishi, promises to demystify the technique of achieving a light, crisp tempura batter traditionally found in high-finish restaurants. Published this month by Shizuoka Press, the book details a precise methodology focusing on water temperature, flour composition, and frying oil control, aiming to replicate professional results in a home kitchen.
Kishi, a third-generation tempura chef and owner of the Tokyo restaurant Tempura Kondo, argues that the key to successful tempura lies in understanding the science behind the batter’s formation. He emphasizes the importance of using very cold water – ideally around 4°C (39°F) – and a specific ratio of flour to liquid. The book details a method of briefly mixing the ingredients, avoiding over-mixing which develops gluten and results in a heavier coating.
Traditional tempura relies on a delicate balance. According to culinary historians, the technique arrived in Japan in the late 16th century, brought by Portuguese missionaries who were observing fasting practices during Lent. These missionaries introduced a style of fried food, known as peixinhos fritos, which the Japanese adapted and refined over centuries, incorporating local ingredients and aesthetic sensibilities. Early Japanese tempura was often enjoyed by Buddhist monks as a meat substitute.
The book’s central claim revolves around achieving a batter viscosity that allows for optimal air bubble formation during frying. Kishi advocates for using a blend of different wheat flours, including cake flour and pastry flour, to control the gluten content. He also stresses the importance of maintaining the oil temperature between 170°C and 180°C (338°F and 356°F) and avoiding overcrowding the fryer, which lowers the oil temperature and leads to soggy tempura.
Reviews of the book have been mixed. Several food bloggers have attempted to replicate Kishi’s recipes, with varying degrees of success. Some report achieving a remarkably light and crispy texture, while others struggle to maintain the precise temperature control and batter consistency required. A review in Food & Wine magazine noted the complexity of the method, stating that it “demands a level of precision that may intimidate novice cooks.”
The challenge for home cooks lies in replicating the conditions of a professional kitchen. Restaurants often utilize specialized equipment, such as temperature-controlled fryers and precise scales, that are not typically found in home kitchens. The book’s instructions require a significant time commitment, including chilling the batter and ingredients for extended periods.
Kishi addresses these concerns in the book’s introduction, acknowledging that mastering tempura requires practice and patience. He provides detailed troubleshooting tips and encourages readers to experiment with different flour blends and frying techniques to identify what works best for their equipment and preferences. He also includes recipes for various dipping sauces (tentsuyu) and accompaniments, such as grated daikon radish.
The book’s publication coincides with a growing interest in Japanese cuisine worldwide. The number of Japanese restaurants outside of Japan has steadily increased in recent years, and there is a growing demand for authentic Japanese ingredients and cooking techniques. According to data from the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), exports of Japanese food products have risen significantly over the past decade.
Shizuoka Press has announced plans for a series of online workshops led by Kishi to further assist home cooks in mastering the art of tempura. The first workshop is scheduled for November 15th and will focus on the fundamentals of batter preparation and frying technique. Registration is currently open on the publisher’s website, but spaces are limited.
