2023-06-17 13:50:27
Invented in 1843 in Austria, used by the Italian army in the Dolomites, then popularized in the second half of the 20th century, the via ferrata is located at halfway between hiking and climbing.
Installed in the middle of nature, these “railways” offer to climb rock walls using metal elements installed throughout the course to facilitate progression.
If the practice may seem impressive, it actually carries little riskon the sole condition of being well prepared and above all well equipped.
An important anticipation, because in case of difficulties on the course, extricating yourself by your own means is (almost) impossible.
Here are 9 valuable tips to start via ferrata without risking repatriation by helicopter!
Via ferrata: a point on the vocabulary
Before starting, let’s take a look at the basic vocabulary:
- Quickdraw: small piece of equipment consisting of two carabiners connected by a strap.
- Slope: steeply sloping wall.
- Gas: empty.
- Lanyard: equipment consisting of two strands terminated by carabiners and attached to the harness. The lanyard allows you to attach to the lifeline. It is also equipped with a resting point to fix in case of fatigue.
- Lifeline: cable installed on the entire via ferrata. The lifeline accommodates the carabiners of the lanyard in order to be constantly secured in the event of a fall.
- Carabiner: metal ring equipped with an opening system. In via ferrata, a self-closing system is recommended to facilitate frequent handling.
- Footbridge: classic via ferrata obstacle made up of wooden planks and equipped with a cable on each side allowing you to hold on with your hands.
- Monkey bridge: obstacle consisting of a cable at the level of the feet and a cable at the level of the hands.
- Pigtail: anchor point fixed in the rock and semi-open to allow the passage of a safety rope.
- Clinging: clinging to a fixed element, generally with the aim of regaining strength.
Tip #1: Equip yourself properly
In via ferrata, the risk of falling is real.
Good equipment is therefore essential if you do not want to leave your skin there. Here is the list of what you will need to buy (or rent) before you even set foot on the wall.
Climbing harness
To ensure your safety in the event of a fall, the manufacture of your climbing harness must be of high quality.
Make sure the equipment is your size. To be sure, check that the belt is above your hips.
The adjustment must allow the straps to be neither too loose nor too tight.
Lanyard with energy absorber
The lanyard is what connects the harness to the lifeline.
In other words, it is she who will save you from death in the event of a fall. It must therefore be the subject of all your attention.
A lanyard consists of:
- Two sections terminated by two type K (or automatic) carabiners;
- A shock absorber that reduces the impact by gradually tearing during a fall.
- A point of rest.
To install the lanyard, grab the mouth closest to the shock absorber and pass it through the shoulder harness loop. Then thread in this same loop the two carabiners followed by the two strands.
Pull and squeeze.
Finally, attach a carabiner to the resting point connector. You will be able to “cow yourself” in case of fatigue.
Helmet
The helmet serves a double purpose.
On the one hand, it protects your head from impacts in the event of an unfortunate fall.
On the other hand, it protects you from potential rockfalls.
Indeed, it is not uncommon for a practitioner above you to roll stones below.
Good to know: it is customary to shout “pebbles” when a stone rolls under your shoe, in order to warn other via ferratists.
Shoes
Even if it may seem counter-intuitive, the activity is practiced with good old mountain boots.
Trainers and sports shoes are prohibited, as they do not provide sufficient grip.
For a good apprehension of the wall, opt for a hiking model with a rigid sole and good foot support.
Gloves
Leather-padded mitts make it easier to grip the metal bars and navigate the various obstacles on the course.
Mainly made up of thick cables, their crossing with bare hands is often unpleasant with, as a result, blisters or even steel straws in the palms of the hands in the absence of gloves.
Quickdraws
A set of quickdraws is always useful.
Before departure, attach a few to the left and right of your harness.
They will be useful for you to get out of bad times, especially when your cow will turn out to be too short a few centimeters to reach the pigtail that reaches out to you!
Backpack and supplies
Do not go on the via ferratas without a small backpack in which you will have slipped:
- Something to hydrate you. A hands-free hydration kit is recommended to be able to drink anywhere on the wall.
- Energy bars or snacks in case you feel down.
- Clothing adapted to the weather conditions.
- A pulley (depending on the route)
Some via ferratas have pulleys on the course. In this case, remember to bring a “special via” system to overcome the obstacle.
Attention, for the safety of practitioners, some routes prohibit models that are too fast.
Tip 2: choose a via ferrata rated F (or A)
If you have never practiced the via, do not embark on routes that are too complex.
You could indeed get stuck and have to call a helicopter to dislodge you.
Because yes, in case of difficulty, getting out of a via ferrata on your own is not always possible.
Fortunately, a precise classification system allows you to know the difficulty of each wall upstream.
In France as in Switzerland, the classification is as follows:
- F = Facile
- PD = Little Difficult
- AD = Fairly Difficult
- D = Difficult
- TD = Very Difficult
- ED = Extremely Difficult
The quotation is slightly different in other countries such as Germany, Spain and Austria:
- A = Facile
- B = Not very difficult
- C = Fairly difficult
- D = Difficult
- E = Very difficult
For a first outing, we advise you to go on an F (or A) course.
You can then increase the level of difficulty according to your experience, without forgetting to take into account your physical and mental form of the day.
Tip #3: Check the weather before you go
The via ferrata is nothing more than a rock wall equipped with metal elements.
In other words, she is definitely one of the worst places to be in a storm.
Likewise, being caught in a windstorm as a rope bridge looms on the horizon is not a very pleasant situation to be in.
You will have understood: before your departure, it is therefore essential to find out about the weather forecast.
In case of uncertainty, do not take any risks and postpone your outing until later.
Tip #4: Make sure you are in good physical shape
Before setting off to attack the wall, check the weather forecast, but also your physical and mental form for the day.
Even if your outing has been planned for several weeks, it is better to cancel it if you do not feel in good shape on D-Day.
Let’s say it again: giving up on a via ferrata isn’t really an option.
The majority of courses offer a fixed route with a start and an end, which means that you will (often) not have an escape route once embarked on the course.
As for the solution of turning around, be aware that the courses are not designed to be climbed. Some obstacles are therefore more difficult to overcome on the way back than on the way out.
Also note that this practice is not very popular with other via ferratists, who may make you understand.
Tip #5: Do a “partner check”
You are well equipped, in great shape and ready to launch yourself on the wall. Before attaching your first carabiner, however, you still have one last step: the “partner check”.
Few beginner via ferratists set off on their own for the first time.
If like many amateurs you are lucky enough to be accompanied, do not skip the partner check, which is to check your partner’s hardware before he does the same to you.
In particular, check the correct fit of the helmet, the positioning of the harness, the attachment of the lanyard and the presence of a connector on the resting point.
If you are alone (which, by the way, is not the most recommended), do not hesitate to ask another via ferratist for help.
Tip #6: Hang on properly
The wall is equipped with numerous anchor points (more or less spaced out depending on whether you are moving horizontally or vertically) and connected by the lifeline.
You will always have to have at least one carabiner attached to itthis in order to avoid unhooking.
To make sure you never find yourself completely detached, change carabiners with one hand.
When you arrive at a fixed anchor, pass the first carabiner over the new portion of the lifeline.
Then change the second carabiner before continuing your progress.
Tip 7: learn to evolve safely with other practitioners
Some vias are very busy and require you to adopt the right reflexes in order to progress in complete safety.
Thus, in vertical ascents, it is important to leave at least one anchor between each person (i.e. an empty cable segment).
This precaution helps to avoid collisions in the event of a fall. If possible, leave two anchors free.
For overtaking, wait until they are located on horizontal areas.
Tip n° 8: cover up when tired
The via ferrata is a sport that puts a lot of strain on the arms, but also the legs.
If you’re not used to this activity, your muscles may have a little trouble keeping up.
In case of fatigue, do not wait before you cower.
Take the carabiner previously installed on the resting point of your lanyard and hang on to a fixed anchor point (forget the branches or any other natural element nearby which can sometimes be tempting, we grant you!).
Release your arms, take a deep breath and regain strength before heading back up the mountain.
Good to know: in order to save your strength, progress with your arms outstretched in the vertical sections. Also remember to exercise your legs!
Tip #9: Have confidence in yourself
The via ferrata is a sport that impresses, in particular because it is often practiced above several tens (even hundreds) of meters of vacuum.
In order not to turn your outing into a real ordeal, set off cautiously, but confidently.
Keep in mind that ratings from F to AD are accessible to the majority of people. Apprehend the vacuum and breathe correctly in order to oxygenate enough muscles and brain.
Via is a very good school for self-confidence. And don’t forget, it’s by having fun that you’ll make your premiere an unforgettable experience!
Conclusion
Thanks to these nine tips, you are ready to set off on your first via ferrata without risking repatriation by helicopter.
In France, many courses are suitable for beginners. In Savoie, the Roc de Cornillon, the Bettières and the via du Diable in Aussois notably offer easy sections.
In the Drôme, the Rocher du Saint-Julien also offers an initiation course and four routes of varying difficulty, ideal for beginners.
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