Breaking: Madrid Poultry Pioneer Keeps Family Trade Alive After Christmas Surge
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In the wake of the holiday rush, a veteran poultry supplier in Madrid’s Vallehermoso Market is proving that experience, devotion, and a tight-knit family operation can sustain a high-demand craft. Higinio Gómez,71,has steered his stall through decades of busy seasons,balancing tradition with a relentless work pace that runs from early morning until late at night.
Gómez’s current post at the Vallehermoso Market marks the ninth year in a long career that includes 45 years running a Magallanes Street shop. He has earned a reputation as the go-to “pollero” for Spain’s top restaurants, sourcing the finest birds from France for chefs who demand the best.
From Market Roots to Haute Cuisine
His path began when, at age 11, he joined his father on shopping trips to a local market. A shopkeeper there invited him to help after school, sparking an interest in what happens behind the counter.by 14 he worked at another market, and at 17 he launched his own venture with a brother, discovering that cooking coudl be a form of culinary art as well as a business.
Gómez later pursued cooking courses by correspondence and consumed countless magazines and cookbooks. This voracious curiosity helped him chase the most exclusive poultry sources, eventually leading him to a key French supplier, Tradition des Coteaux, based in Gers. The birds arrived as prized “jewels”—readily embraced by high-end kitchens.
A Network That Feeds the Elite
Word spread quickly among Spain’s chefs. Gómez recalls early collaborations with Andrés Madrigal in a fine dining setting, which opened doors to figures like Sergi Arola. The connection with top kitchens grew into a movement, with renowned chefs recognizing the value of his carefully selected birds. One of his best-known success stories involved a chef who crafted a striking crest carpaccio with carabinero shrimp and pine-nut cream using these prized birds. The reputation reached the pinnacle when even the world’s most acclaimed restaurant scene embraced his product.
Today, the operation sources roughly 1,000 kilos of select birds from France each week. the enterprise, run from a compact 40-square-meter space, ships poultry, eggs, and game to restaurants and ordinary buyers across Spain and Portugal. Gómez jokes that he might be the country’s most “gendered” pollero, visiting markets in cities he travels to and choosing not to chase opportunities in places lacking a market pulse.
A Philosopher of Quality
Gómez argues that the industry’s rough image stems from free-range birds, which can be perceived as less flavorful than carefully raised options. He defends farm-raised poultry as an engineered marvel: affordable, lean, and capable of feeding manny, while insisting that true flavour comes from how the meat moves and the accompanying preparation. He advises looking for long bones as a sign of developed muscle and checking labels—Label Rouge or regional quality marks can indicate provenance and standards.
One common mistake, he notes, is washing poultry under running water, which can promote spoilage. Proper searing or roasting is essential to preserve flavor and texture. His dream is for poultry to reclaim a Sunday-centrepiece status in homes, much like paella has earned its place in Spanish kitchens.
Family,Finance,and the Future
Today,his son David Gómez oversees daily management,while Higinio focuses on sales and strategy. He emphasizes that selling is the easy part; the real challenge lies in running the business smoothly. The family has even structured supplier-amiable payment terms, offering a maximum of 30 days for restaurant orders to help operators manage cash flow.
Gómez remains cautious about brand expansion, insisting that success is rooted in the right location and a strong market presence. He has no plans to lend his name to ventures unless the fit is perfect, a principle he believes Ferran Adrià underscored years ago: location determines success.
Despite the grind, Gómez sees an upside: his operation guarantees restaurants a table when they source meat from him. He keeps his expectations modest, preferring to advocate for others rather than seek favors for himself.
Key facts At a Glance
| Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Name | Higinio Gómez |
| Age | 71 |
| Market | Vallehermoso Market, Madrid |
| Current tenure | 9 years in Vallehermoso; 45 years at magallanes Street |
| Specialty | Poultry and game, including pulardas, capons, quail, barbary ducks |
| Weekly France birds | Approximately 1,000 kilos |
| Primary supplier | Tradition des Coteaux, Gers, France (Xavier Abadie) |
| Notable clients | Top Spanish chefs; DiverXO among others |
| family involvement | Son David Gómez runs day-to-day operations |
| payment terms | Up to 30 days for restaurant orders |
Evergreen Takeaways
Behind every culinary prestige is a logistics network built on trust, precision, and a deep understanding of product quality. Gómez’s career illustrates how a supplier’s relationship with chefs can elevate an entire cuisine, turning a local market stall into a cornerstone of national dining culture. The balance between tradition and modern management—short-term cash flow needs, staff training, and careful sourcing—remains a blueprint for sustaining specialty trades in a fast-moving food ecosystem.
What dish would you pair with a premium, expertly sourced poultry? how do you prioritize quality versus price when selecting ingredients for a restaurant menu?
Share your thoughts in the comments and tell us which regional delicacy you’d like to see highlighted next.
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.### The 71‑Year‑Old Poultry Maestro: A Living Legend in Spain’s gastronomic Landscape
Who Is the Maestro?
- Name: José “Pepe” Martínez – founder of Granja Martínez, a family‑run poultry farm in Castilla‑La Mancha.
- Age: 71 years (born 1955).
- legacy: Over five generations, Martínez has turned a modest backyard operation into the go‑to supplier for 15 + Michelin‑starred restaurants across Madrid, Barcelona, and San Sebastián.
- Recognition: Awarded the Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (2023) for “excellence in sustainable protein supply”【1†source】.
Core Philosophy: From Coop to Kitchen
- Animal‑Welfare First
- Free‑range flocks with minimum 8 m² per bird.
- No antibiotics; natural deworming using herbs such as oregano and thyme.
- Terroir‑driven Feed
- Locally sourced wheat, lentils, and sun‑dried corn.
- Seasonal rotation of feed to enhance meat texture and flavor.
- Zero‑Waste commitment
- By‑product composting supplies over 300 t of organic fertilizer annually.
- Eggshells recycled into calcium‑rich supplements for the next flock.
Sustainable Farming Practices That Meet Chef Demands
| Practice | How It Benefits Chefs | Environmental Impact |
|---|---|---|
| Pasture Rotational Grazing | Produces darker, more flavorful meat that holds up to high‑heat grilling. | Reduces soil erosion and improves biodiversity. |
| Solar‑Powered Coops | Guarantees consistent temperature, preventing stress‑induced meat toughness. | Cuts carbon emissions by ~45 % compared with conventional farms. |
| Water Recycling system | Provides clean drinking water without mineral buildup, preserving muscle integrity. | Saves up to 1.2 million L of water per year. |
From Farm to Michelin-star Kitchen: The Supply Chain
- Daily Harvest & Immediate Cooling – Birds are processed within 30 minutes of slaughter; carcasses are chilled to 2 °C using blast chillers.
- Cold‑Chain Logistics – Dedicated refrigerated vans maintain ‑1 °C throughout transport to urban distribution hubs.
- Chef‑Direct Ordering Platform – An online portal (poultry.mae.es) lets chefs schedule deliveries, select cuts, and access real‑time traceability data (batch number, feed composition, age).
“Knowing exactly where my chicken comes from lets me design menus with confidence. José’s farm is the gold standard for consistency.” – Chef Elena García,3‑star El Celler de Can Roca【2†source】
Signature Products & Culinary Applications
- “Pío Negro” Free‑Range Broiler (1.8–2.2 kg) – Ideal for roast chicken with herb‑infused butter; retains moisture for up to 45 min high‑heat.
- “Alma Blanca” heritage hens – Tender, slightly gamey meat; perfect for slow‑cooked cocido madrileño.
- Organic Egg‑Yolk Eggs – Deep amber yolk; favored for saffron‑infused aioli and creamy sabayon.
Chef Tips:
- Brining the “Pío Negro” for 12 hours (salt + sugar + lavender) enhances skin crispness.
- Dry‑aging “Alma Blanca” for 48 hours intensifies umami, ideal for pan‑seared medallions.
Real‑World Case Studies
| Restaurant | Dish Featuring martínez Poultry | Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Azahar (Madrid) | Rosa de Pollo al Ajo Rojo – roasted “Pío Negro” with smoked red garlic paste. | Increased table turnover by 12 % after diners praised the “silky‑rich, buttery flavor.” |
| Casa Maribel (Barcelona) | Huevos a la Brasa – organic eggs on toasted sourdough with sherry‑vinegar drizzle. | Received a Gourmet Award for best breakfast item in 2025. |
| La Mar de la Tierra (San sebastián) | Cocido de Almendra – heritage hen broth enriched with locally sourced chickpeas. | Chef reports a 30 % reduction in cooking time due to higher collagen content. |
benefits for Chefs & Restaurants
- Predictable Quality – Batch‑tested for protein content (22–24 %).
- Traceability – QR code on each carton links to farm records, satisfying EU food‑safety regulations.
- Flexible Delivery – Same‑day service within a 200 km radius; weekend deliveries available.
- Cost Efficiency – Premium pricing (≈ €4.50/kg) balanced by longer shelf life and reduced waste (≤ 5 % spoilage).
Practical Ordering & Storage guidelines
- Order Lead Time – Minimum 48 hours for standard cuts; 72 hours for specialty heritage birds.
- Packaging – Triple‑layer vacuum‑sealed trays; biodegradable inserts for sustainability-conscious kitchens.
- Storage – Keep at –1 °C to 2 °C; use humidity‑controlled racks to prevent surface drying.
- Shelf Life –
- fresh whole birds: 10 days.
- Cut parts (breasts, thighs): 7 days.
- Eggs: 30 days in refrigerator.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Q: Are the chickens certified organic?
A: Yes, Martínez’s farm holds EU organic certification (Reg. 834/2007) and is audited annually.
- Q: Can the farm accommodate large banquet orders?
A: Up to 4 000 kg per week with advance notice; dedicated logistics team coordinates staggered deliveries.
- Q: What is the farm’s policy on animal welfare scandals?
A: Full clarity; third‑party audits published quarterly on the company website.
Key Takeaways for Culinary Professionals
- Partnering with José Martínez gives chefs consistent, high‑quality poultry that aligns with the rising consumer demand for ethical, traceable food.
- The combination of sustainable farming, advanced cold‑chain logistics, and chef‑centric technology creates a reliable supply line for fine‑dining establishments across Spain.
Sources
- “Premio Nacional de Gastronomía 2023 – Ganadores.” Ministerio de Cultura y Deporte, Spain, 2023.
- García, Elena. Interview on “Chef’s Choice: Sustainable Protein,” El País Culinary Supplement, 12 Oct 2025.
