Chess in the Concrete Jungle: The Hustlers of Washington square Park
New York City, a metropolis brimming with endless possibilities and captivating contradictions, is also a haven for chess enthusiasts. While the city’s iconic skyline and boundless ambition are celebrated worldwide, its vibrant chess culture thrives in unexpected spaces, from cozy bookshops and bustling cafes to the heart of Greenwich Village’s Washington Square Park. My recent trip to New York began with an intriguing encounter at JFK airport. While waiting at passport control, I noticed an officer intently studying a chess game on his phone. We struck up a conversation, and he enthusiastically recommended a visit to Washington Square Park, a renowned gathering place for chess hustlers. Intrigued, I made a mental note to add the park to my itinerary. Eager to explore the city’s connection to chess, I met with Larry List, a respected curator and expert on chess art. Larry, whom I had corresponded with over the years, graciously offered to show me some notable chess-related artworks housed in New York’s prestigious museums. Our first stop was the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), where we observed man Ray’s iconic Silver Chess Set, crafted in 1926 for the Maharaja of Indore, and his meticulously designed Chess Table, created in collaboration with French designer jean-Michel Frank. MoMA also houses other captivating chess-themed artworks, including Josef Hartwig’s minimalist Bauhaus chess set, Marcel Duchamp’s haunting “Chess Players” etching, and Yoko Ono’s visually striking White Chess Set. chess enthusiasts will also discover interesting pieces at the Guggenheim Museum and The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met).
From MoMA, we ventured to Washington Square Park, a lively melting pot of humanity where chess takes center stage.
“This is ‘the hustler’s hunting ground,’” a friend had once told me, and the park certainly lived up to its reputation.
Imagine my surprise to learn that the legendary filmmaker Stanley Kubrick honed his chess skills in this very park as a hustler, using his winnings to support his filmmaking aspirations.
In the vibrant tapestry of Washington Square Park, chess hustlers have long captivated passersby, offering a glimpse into a unique subculture within the city’s bustling heart. Among these skilled players,Asa Hoffmann stands out. Known for his masterful gameplay and engaging personality, Hoffman documented his extraordinary journey in the acclaimed book *The last Gamesman: My Sixty Years of Hustling Games in the clubs, Parks, and Streets of New York*.
As we strolled through the park, I witnessed a tense chess match unfold between a hustler and a tourist. The hustler’s offer echoed through the air: “Ten dollars a game, five if it’s a draw.”
Our path led us past the Washington Arch, a towering monument commemorating the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration in 1789.
According to legend,in 1917,after a spirited night of revelry,Marcel Duchamp and fellow artists ascended the arch and,in a playful act of defiance against the establishment,declared the “Free and Self-reliant Republic of Washington Square.”
Chess: A New York City Story
New York City’s vibrant energy extends beyond its iconic skyline and bustling streets. In the heart of Greenwich Village, hidden amongst trendy cafes and historic landmarks, a centuries-old game continues to captivate minds: chess. From the lively park benches of Washington Square to the hallowed halls of the Marshall Chess Club, chess in New York is a tapestry woven with history, passion, and a renewed sense of popularity. Even in the digital age, the allure of the chessboard remains strong. As I strolled through Washington Square Park, the clatter of chess pieces became a familiar soundtrack. Groups huddled around tables, their faces illuminated by the concentration etched on them.
I was drawn into a game with a young man in his twenties. Despite my rusty skills,I managed a victory,a feat that earned a chuckle from my opponent and a reminder of the joy rediscovering old passions. “Chess has really picked up since COVID and the Queen’s Gambit series,” he shared, reflecting a nationwide trend of renewed interest in the game. He spoke of a burgeoning youth chess scene, with parents eager to nurture their children’s talents.
This resurgence is evident in places like Bryant Park and the Chess Forum café, a haven for both seasoned players and curious newcomers. The café, established in 1995, is a chess enthusiast’s paradise, filled with sets, books, memorabilia, and the constant murmur of focused minds locked in battle over the board.
As I ventured further into the world of New York chess,I found myself standing before the hallowed entrance of the Marshall Chess Club,a landmark establishment founded in 1915.
For over a century,the Club has been a sanctuary for chess masters and enthusiasts alike. The walls are adorned with photographs and artifacts, testament to the legends who have graced its boards – Bobby Fischer, Capablanca, Fabiano Caruana, Hikaru Nakamura, and Magnus carlsen, to name but a few. The air vibrates with the quiet intensity of a game steeped in history and tradition, a tradition that continues to draw players from all walks of life to the heart of New York City.
The Enduring Legacy of Chess in New York
New York City, a melting pot of culture and history, boasts a vibrant and enduring chess scene. From iconic clubs to dedicated bookstores, the city breathes chess, attracting players of all levels.My recent journey through the city’s chess landscape revealed a tapestry woven with passion, tradition, and a touch of nostalgia. One evening, I found myself at the historic Marshall chess Club, a true shrine to American chess legacy. The club hosted a special event honoring none other than Nona gaprindashvili, a legendary chess figure.
Listening to FIDE’s CEO Emil Sutovsky and chess journalist Frank Brady, renowned author of the definitive biography of bobby Fischer, I was drawn to the rich tapestry of history that chess weaves. Later, over Georgian food, I engaged in a captivating conversation with frank and Maxine Brady, his wife, a fellow journalist and author.
Frank’s accomplishments extend beyond the chess world, having penned acclaimed biographies of prominent individuals like Orson Welles and Aristotle Onassis. It was a humbling reminder that chess, like New York itself, connects us to extraordinary peopel and remarkable stories.
Chess Across the City
New York is home to Fred Wilson Chess Books, the world’s largest chess bookstore, boasting a vast collection from modern classics to rare, out-of-print gems. While I couldn’t visit this haven for chess bibliophiles, I explored other bookstores like the Strand, where a dedicated chess section showcased a diverse range of titles. Everywhere I went, Walter Tevis’s “The Queen’s Gambit” remained a bestseller, proving the enduring power of this chess-themed novel, even years after its Netflix adaptation.Chess in Schools: Nurturing young Minds
Chess education thrives in New York. Sunil Weeramantry, a leading figure in U.S. chess and stepfather to Grandmaster Hikaru Nakamura, shared his vision with me during a dinner at the marshall Chess Club. Sunil founded the National Scholastic Chess Foundation (NSCF) in 1990, an organization that has expanded beyond New York, offering programs and teacher training to over 60 schools nationwide. While chess isn’t a top priority for every school board,it’s clear that the game is embraced by the education system,particularly in underprivileged areas like Harlem and the Bronx where special programs and courses offer children an possibility to learn and grow. The Chess in The Schools project, launched in 1986, exemplifies this commitment, having taught chess to over 500,000 underserved children.Navigating the Digital Age
Despite the thriving chess scene, New York’s conventional chess world faces challenges echoed globally.The rise of online chess has led to a decline in over-the-board activities and physical chess venues. Iconic venues like the Village Chess Shop, a family-run institution for 40 years, closed its doors in 2012. “It’s just a sign of changing times,” a chess player in the New York Corporate Chess League – a competition uniting employees from firms across the city – told me.“Chess will survive and thrive; the mediums change, and business will have to follow and adapt. It’s pure business logic.” This Christmas, New York will add another glorious chapter to its chess history as the city hosts the World Rapid and Blitz Championships.It’s a testament to the enduring strength of chess within the vibrant tapestry of New York City.New York City is getting ready for a chess takeover this Christmas. the World Rapid and Blitz Championship is headed to the Big Apple, bringing together 300 of the world’s top chess players for what promises to be the strongest chess event ever held in the United States.
The excitement is palpable. Even Gotham Chess, aka Bronx native Levy Rozman, one of the world’s top chess streamers, expressed his enthusiasm about the event coming to his home city, calling it “a huge opportunity for global chess and a breath of fresh air for New York’s chess scene.”
Chess has long been woven into the fabric of New York City. From the hustlers in Washington Square Park – immortalized in a recent cover of The New Yorker magazine – to the renowned museums and chess clubs, the game is a unifying thread across diverse communities. “In a city that thrives on diversity and reinvention, chess mirrors New York itself—ever-evolving yet rooted in art, community, and history,” observes one chess enthusiast.
“Pawns in the Park,” the cover illustration by Victoria Tentler-krylov, aptly captures this sentiment, depicting the chess tables at Washington Square Park as “a serene corner of contemplation amidst New york City’s hustle and bustle.”
Don’t miss this historic event! if you’re in New York City this Christmas, catch the World Rapid and Blitz Championship. As one chess expert shared, “This will be the strongest chess event ever held in the U.S.” Get yoru tickets now: tickets.fide.com/
Written by Milan Dinic
photo: Larry List and Milan Dinic
