On the sidelines of the prestigious “Bocuse d’Or” held in Lyon on January 22 and 23, the magazine 15 Minutes took an interest in pressure in the kitchen. Race for the stars, competition, customer demands: in this context, is the succession of great chefs guaranteed?
In the large hall of the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, the supporters took out the flags and the drums. In an atmosphere worthy of a World Cup match, the cooks embark on a marathon of more than 5 hours. Twenty-four countries are in the running and many professionals have made the trip to observe this competition.
Among them, chef Franck Giovannini, from the Town Hall of Crissier (VD). He finished third in the competition in 2007: “I did it for a personal challenge. Obviously for the chefs who finish in the first places, it can be a springboard at international level”.
This year, Denmark won. Switzerland ranked tenth. She was represented by the Bernese Christoph Hunziker, the clerk Céline Maier and the coach Dominic Bucher, who also took part in the Lyon competition a few years ago: “It’s the most difficult. To be on the podium is a great honour, but also career pressure”.
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Multiple exams per day
The pressure, these aces of the stoves are accustomed to it. “They have a competition at noon and a competition in the evening,” notes Lucien Mosimann, coordinator of the Swiss Bocuse d’Or Academy. “I think we are made for that or not,” continues Franck Giovannini. “I have the chance to live it quite well”.
Frank Giovannini [Gilles Wenger – RTS]
In addition to the requirements of the clients, there is also the pressure of the guides. “It’s true that it’s not common to be noted for your work, and I understand that it can be quite unpleasant”, recognizes Knut Schwander, head of Gault & Millau for French-speaking Switzerland, whom 15 Minutes met before a test meal in a restaurant in Neuchâtel.
He evokes a somewhat ambiguous love-hate relationship between chefs and guides: “We need restaurateurs. They could do without us. On the other hand, we offer them a rather extraordinary sounding board”.
A slightly different future?
But while the hotel and restaurant sector is struggling to find new talent and retain its staff, should we be worried about the future of haute cuisine? “I do not see a lack of succession among the great chefs, because it is a profession of absolute passion”, believes Knut Schwander.
According to him, the change could be at the level of the staff of these establishments: “In a large table, there is today a plethora of collaborators. This is perhaps where the model will evolve, towards a service a little more restrained”.
For his part, Franck Giovannini does not seem worried: “There are still young people who are motivated. We have a magnificent job and we see the results every day. I am quite convinced that it will continue, perhaps with different ways of doing it”. “People will always want to eat and treat themselves,” he said.
Katia Bitsch, William King