Hey guys, how are you? This morning our great friend @batatabonito, presenter on the Roda Liso channel, asked if I could find a way to fix his mouse that was having a problem.
I asked if the problem was double-click, he said no. I asked if the mouse was with registration failed, neither. He just told me that “something was wrong“. I thought, well, I’ll take advantage and record a tutorial video of this, maybe it can help someone who is having the same problem with this and other mice.
To diagnose the problem, I connected the mouse to the Notebook and opened the Mouse Tester website, a website that visually indicates which mouse button is being pressed, very useful for diagnosing problems. As soon as I picked up the mouse for the first time, I already noticed the problem: the right primary button click is super sensitive – just put your finger on the button and it is already activated. Even so, I continued testing the site to see if there was anything else but apparently that was it. To solve this sensitive click problem, we’ll need to open the mouse and replace the switch, and in this tutorial I’ll show you how to do that.
I only recommend performing a switch swap if the mouse is out of warranty, as doing so risks damaging the PCB and ruining the mouse forever. I’m just going to open it and carry out this process because the mouse is of no use to anyone if the right button doesn’t work right. If your mouse is under warranty, message the company with the problem, Razer, Logitech, HyperX, whatever, they usually send you a new mouse within a few days. So only do this process here as a last resort.
How to solve double click problem, registration failure, drop when dragging, etc
1. First we have to open the mouse. Unfortunately mouse screws are almost always hidden under the feets, so we’ll have to remove them first. To do this I’m going to use a hot air blower to loosen the glue but you might as well use a hair dryer or even one very hot wet towel. If using a hot air blower, place your thumb on top of the sensor part as I am doing in the image below. So you protect the sensor and at the same time know when to stop the hot air. When your thumb starts to burn, it means the adhesive is also hot enough to release the glue;
2. Now we can access the four screws on the bottom of the mouse. In the tutorial we are going to fix the Pulsefire Raid mouse, but almost every mouse is the same when disassembling. If you have a lot of difficulty in this part of opening the mouse, search YouTube for the name of your mouse and the word “teardown”. If it’s not a very unknown mouse, there will definitely be a video of someone teaching how to open your specific model;
3. After unscrewing and disassembling everything, we have access to what matters: the two primary buttons. Here I noticed that the problem is really on the right switch, which became super sensitive out of nowhere. These switches are omrons 20 millionsvery popular on HyperX mice and are present on almost all Logitech mice. You may have heard that Logitech mice tend to have a double click problem, and the culprit is these little guys here. Here at the office I have two switches left, a generic switch that I don’t even know the brand and another one from Kailh. We’re going to take Omrom out and put one of these. For this, we will need a Soldering Iron. If you don’t have one of these at home, I highly recommend buying it, it costs about 20 reais on Amazon and is a very useful thing to have;
4. I don’t know much about soldering, I didn’t take a course at SENAI, but even so I can manage to replace switches on several mice. Just touch the tip of the iron to the three pins that hold the switch and remove it when the solder becomes liquid.
Depending on the mouse, it is easier or harder to remove the switch. In this case, it was one of the hardest I’ve ever taken. Omron just didn’t want to leave, so I spent a lot of time on that. The important thing is to be patient and persist.
In the end the switch came out all broken, but it doesn’t matter because it was going to the trash anyway.
5. Now just fit the new switch in place and drip a drop of solder on top. It didn’t turn out the way I wanted, but the important thing is that, even though it got ugly, it worked well. I repeated the test on the mouse tester and everything is fine. Let’s assemble the mouse again, screw everything and return the mouse to our great friend Matheus.
I asked him to drop mobile games for a minute and put some bullets in Valorant, just to make sure everything is really working as it should. If you already complain on the Roda Liso channel that Batata doesn’t know how to play, know that it’s not much different on the PC. In this case, it’s not the mouse’s fault, so it’s all right.
Did you like the tutorial? I’ll leave below some links to content related to mice. Check it out if you like it.