2023-09-10 16:00:13
The Entre-deux-Mers region, in Gironde, is the most affected in the Bordeaux vineyards by the overproduction of both reds and whites, which have become difficult to sell. Three winegrowers talk about their difficulties in marketing their bottles, and how they decided to uproot part of their vines, as part of a plan that was both national and regional.
Sébastien Léglise, in Castelviel: “When I lost a big Chinese client…”
Sébastien Léglise, 48, stands in front of his vineyard, Falgueyret-Léglise, located in Castelviel: 50 hectares stretch as far as the eye can see in this corner of Entre-deux-Mers, which will produce multiple Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur vintages. In 2008, full of hope, he took over the farm from his wife’s family. Fifteen years later, he has just submitted a grubbing request for 35 hectares, which corresponds to the average volume of juice that he is no longer able to sell each year. Before 2019, it sold up to 600,000 bottles per year. Today, he is struggling to sell 200,000. Instead, perhaps he will make cereals.
“The problems started in 2019, with the loss of a very large Chinese clientsays Sébastien Léglise. After Covid-19, we had a drop in demand from Asia, and the market never recovered. » And then, he can no longer sustain the price war. “Our competitors offer bottles at 1.50 euros when I have to sell at 3 euros to be profitable”, deplores the winegrower. How to do this without lowering prices? “By rethinking the way we work, by thinking outside the box, in order to attract customers. »
In their cellar, Sébastien Léglise and his wife have set up a cozy space with sofas, to receive the public during tastings. They also called on a graphic designer to revisit their labels. The winemaker adds: “Bordeaux is an ocean of wines, but does the brand meets the demand of current customers? » He regrets that the vineyard is distorted by the omnipresent but aging image of great wines sold at very high prices. “Bordeaux isn’t just that. »
By reducing the size of his vineyard, Sébastien Léglise intends to devote himself more to direct sales, to the property. He wants to move upmarket, communicate, develop wine tourism, create events… And, why not, create a lodge. “If we want to do well, we must do less. But I’m halfway through my credit, it won’t be easy to repay it. I need to find resources…”
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