2024-01-23 21:04:08
The label LUEDER, founded in 2019 by the designer Marie Lueder, is showing us its AW24 collection at the upcoming Berlin Fashion Week. Fashionstreet tells you the most important thing you need to know about the London fashion brand and the up-and-coming designer:
A tailor loves chain mail
When the founder Marie Lueder completed her training as a men’s tailor at the Hamburg State Opera, she specialized in making tailor-made clothing. She later found her very own design style during her master’s degree at the Royal College of Art in London. This is heavily inspired by medieval armor and equipment that the knights wore during their crusades. Even as a child, she gained knowledge about armor and costume design. Together with her mother, she researched medieval eras and, for example, took part in the annual medieval LARP camp in Hamburg. Her preference for such medieval silhouettes goes back to her childhood.
Sustainability and Journeyman
With great attention to detail, the young designer now creates clothing that is characterized by a combination of practical sportswear and contemporary and distinctive aesthetics. This focuses on distinctive medieval armor-like tailoring. Lueder relies on innovative materials for the production of clothing and attaches great importance to sustainability. That’s why the label uses organic cotton, recycled jersey and regenerated nylon in their production. At the University of Cambridge, LUEDER demonstrated its commitment by participating in a sustainable leadership program. The label also presented an SS24 collection during London Fashion Week that explores our troubling future on Earth.
LUEDER offers protection and strengthening
Experimental designs, simple earth tones and medieval influences are what we catch at first glance. But LUEDER collections also contain elaborately constructed cutting techniques that give you a firm feel and a supportive, almost knightly posture. Lueder’s goal is to make wide-cut jeans look like jeans, even though they are particularly draped: the material wraps around the leg in a long strip like a spiral. There are often extra seams in the knee area, which are reminiscent of the knee tiles that are essential for the knight. Not only Lueder’s love for tailor-made tailoring is noticeable here, but also her years of experience. She skillfully applies them to her contemporary designs. The idea came to her when she wanted to help someone with their mental health. Her goal now is to design extraordinary clothing that strengthens the wearer and ensures protection. The label is also characterized by spirituality and individuality. In addition to the seasonal collections, it offers amulets such as talismans. Of course also in medieval style and attention to detail.
Ultimately, LUEDER offers protection and comfort in clothing and is a label that stands for empowerment, individuality and self-confidence. We are excited to see what LUEDER will present to us at Berlin Fashion Week AW 24/25.
Author: Aaliyah Netnakhon – Photos: PR
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