Taking place twice a year, on the occasion of the spring-summer and autumn-winter seasons, Milano Fashion Week Men’s hosted until yesterday the parades of the major Italian fashion brands, such as Giorgio Armani, Prada, Tod’s, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Kiton, among others. The event also offered live fashion shows and presentations of brands and emerging talents. It should be noted that the January 2022 edition was held – after an interruption due to the pandemic – in its physical format. So we saw the best of men’s fashion trends for the next winter season return to Milan for five intense days as part of Milano Fashion Week Men’s (or Milano Moda Uomo). On this occasion, the new men’s ready-to-wear and accessories creations for the fall-winter 2023 season were previewed to the press and industry professionals. This fashion week is also an opportunity to highlight some of the city’s iconic spaces, including exhibition spaces and showrooms, all animated by fashion shows, presentations and other private events by the best Italian designers.
Dolce & Gabbana fall-winter 2023. Photo Miguel Medina/AFP
90s bling
If we are to believe the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show, next winter men will look like stolen cars, which does not prevent us from admiring the graphic and textile prowess achieved on the models presented. Launched on a luminous track that created a mind-blowing visual immersion, the march of the models was punctuated by the rap and punk singer Machine Gun Kelly, first alone on stage warming up the room in a silver fabric costume, and then joined by the first models announcing a collection more bling-bling than ever, all oversized volumes, psychedelic prints, flashy colors and metallic reflections. It feels like a revival of 1990s rappers, chains, beadwork and baroque jewelry engulfed in grizzly coats. With the difference that technology, this time, gets involved and that we have the impression of discovering the beginnings of a strong entry into the metaverse, a word and a virtual place destined to become essential over the weeks. to come, with a total invasion that will begin above all in fashion, NFTs, cryptocurrencies and other virtual tools.
Fendi fall-winter 2023. Photo Miguel Medina/AFP
The return of the jacket lent to the companion
At Fendi, we stay in elegance and the leather compensates for the fur in a context where the Kering group, to which the Roman house belongs, has decided to ban this material, which is nevertheless intrinsic to Fendi. For this collection, the artistic director of the men’s collections, Silvia Venturini Fendi, plunges back into the 1920s, this inter-war period when we caught up in style with what the First World War had dissipated in chaos. And this season, where the endemic seems to replace the pandemic, also resembles the aftermath of the war which requires finally leaving home and getting dressed to meet your fellow men. Fendi brings back gingham checks, large coats, bermudas and bow ties. The frock coat emphasizes the waist and if the shoulders are wide enough to contain the muscles worked during the long confinement, the structure remains in place and the scruffiness stored indefinitely. The feminine invites itself more than ever into this very chic wardrobe, the sweaters are indented and the men seem to recover the jackets that they have long lent to women, but as they are, adjusted and sharpened, enlarged bust and narrowed waist . Added to this are brooches, jewels, charms, optional tinsel, nestled in the accessory, but which enhance the sobriety of the clothing proposals, despite certain models covered with Fendi’s double F logo, also replicated on the podium where zigzagged dummies.
Actor Thomas Brodie-Sangster walking the runway for Prada’s fall-winter collection in Milan. Miguel Medina/AFP
Work Dignifies
At Prada, the cinema was in the spotlight, in the minds as on the catwalk, with no less than ten stars hired as models, including Kyle MacLachlan, Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Jeff Goldblum and Asa Butterfield. We know the preference of fashion houses for figures that do not just play hangers and release the energy of inspiring personalities. Work is dignity, and director Miuccia Prada, known for her communist convictions, seems delighted with the return of men to professional places. We will therefore see a plethora of overalls, clothing intended for laborers in the factories, a revamped overalls, brought to the dignity of a uniform. She will especially be interested in the durability of a solid garment intended to age while keeping the scars of life and the memories of toil.
Taking place twice a year, on the occasion of the spring-summer and autumn-winter seasons, Milano Fashion Week Men’s hosted until yesterday the parades of the major Italian fashion brands, such as Giorgio Armani, Prada, Tod’s, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Kiton, among others. The event also featured live parades and…