AFP, published on Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 11:32 p.m.
Low back, cutouts on the hips, dresses evoking negligees: the trend for ultrasexy and bare bodies is taking hold in haute couture.
On Thursday, the last day of the Parisian Haute Couture week, Fendi presented a collection all in light and transparency with many dresses designed around lingerie.
“It’s the inner world that comes out, both figuratively and literally, and underwear becomes evening wear,” said Briton Kim Jones, artistic director of the house’s couture collections. Roman in the parade notes.
In front of the singers Courtney Love and Rita Ora, in the front row wearing almost identical total blue looks with wedge boots, paraded models in fluid dresses, light gray or flesh-colored with pumps with jewel heels.
– “I’m sexy” –
To better confirm the trend, American Casey Cadwallader, designer of the Mugler house, infiltrated haute couture on Thursday evening with his augmented ready-to-wear fashion show, the first physical show since Covid-19, and a year later. the death of the flamboyant founder of the Thierry Mugler brand, whose image of the sexy, glamorous and powerful woman has marked several generations of stylists.
Corsets, bare or shapely legs and buttocks in leather or lace and zoomed in on a giant screen with the refrain “I’m sexy”.
The parade ended in disco for everyone mixing models and guests.
“Let’s have fun! Mugler, that’s always been it! Fashion isn’t about walking straight with sad faces. It’s something warm and exciting,” Casey Cadwallader told reporters.
The Spanish designer Juana Martin has also bet on glamor and nudity.
A little black dress or sheer white mini ensemble with voluminous fan-shaped sleeves, her trademark, are worn with silver stiletto sandals.
“Tie and dye” denim is the star material of this collection lightened by cutouts and openings: here, a bodysuit with bare legs is worn with an Andalusian hat.
There, a long dress with ruffled shoulders is split to the waist.
The cutouts on the hips of the skirts and pants feminize the silhouettes made in this raw material.
“High fashion is sometimes uncomfortable or corseted, but it does things that make you feel super light inside, it’s super ethereal,” the designer told AFP.
– Post-Covid release-
“There’s a lot of nudity in clothing. It’s always in waves, we’re coming out of a pandemic, people want to go out, to show off, to celebrate together. It goes with it,” he said. AFP Christian Louboutin who designed red-soled shoes for Juana Martin’s fashion show. “Shoes had to have small lines, just shine”.
For the French couturier Julien Fournié, it is a question of “reclaiming the body bruised by the Covid”.
Its collection inspired by the 30s is fluid and light and the silhouettes are designed to be worn without a bra if it is not an embroidered swimsuit which is in itself an evening outfit.
“The idea is to wear it with a lot of freedom and a lot of … nudity,” he told AFP.
Alexis Mabille designed long red and green dresses with huge cutouts on the sides, while a few strips of fabric barely draped the chest of a pink evening dress by Haider Ackermann for Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Moroccan seamstress Sara Chraïbi, who made her debut in Paris on Thursday, defended “freedom of adornment and movement”.
Her architectural and opulent collection played on lengths lightened by necklines and fringes.
An embroidered bra is worn as a top of a trouser suit with a veil cape.
“I wanted to have two points of view: a point of view on the freedom to cover up or to uncover,” she told AFP.