When discussing Montreal’s culinary scene, one cannot overlook the influence of Jewish culture. If the metropolis has its classics (the smoked-meat from Schwartz’s, Saint-Viateur bagels, Wilensky’s beef salami sandwiches), a new generation of Jewish restaurants has been setting up shop in our gastronomic landscape for several years. The Arthurs Nosh Bar is one of them and the Steinberg-Cohen couple, behind its concept, helps to promote this traditional cuisine with a personal and modern touch. Meeting with two young chefs to learn a little more about the meal they used to have during this celebration. Second text in a three-part series.
© Valerian Mazataud Le Devoir
Chefs Alex Cohen and Raegan Steinberg, owners of Arthurs Nosh Bar
Meet the two leaders
When Alex and Raegan developed the first menus in 2016 at Arthurs, whose name is a tribute to Raegan’s deceased father, they chose to revisit dishes typical of their Jewish culinary heritage.
Although they are both of the same faith, the cuisine of the two families is a little different, since Raegan’s has Russian and Romanian roots, while Alex’s is of Moroccan origin. The Arthurs menu is therefore inspired by the Jewish cuisine of Eastern Europe, Ashkenazi, and that of Morocco, Sephardic.
However, it is mostly Ashkenazi-inspired dishes that make up the restaurant’s menu. “We wanted to do so-called aperitif Jewish cuisine, made up of light menus and fish. Ashkenazi cuisine lent itself well to this with its smoked salmon, matzahhis sandwiches of schnitzel and his latkes says Alex. He adds that they still included some Moroccan Jewish dishes, such as chakchoukaserved for brunch.
In addition, some recipes, such as soup with matzah balls, have been revisited with a slightly more “Moroccan” touch: with grilled onions, peppers and fresh coriander. This soup, a staple at Arthurs Nosh Bar, is also an important dish at Passover celebrations in Ashkenazic culture. “At home,” says Raegan, “we weren’t very religious, but we still celebrated holidays with the family with traditional dishes, always starting with soup with matzah balls. »
Both nostalgic and religious
Raegan fondly recalls meals from his childhood. “My father loved to eat, he celebrated food! My mother cooked for a long time and placed several dishes on the table, such as gefilte fish, a white fish stuffed and served cold with a horseradish sauce, or the eggplant salad cooked with Romanian-inspired red peppers and for dessert, unleavened chocolate cake and poached pears. »
“We are more picky about religion than in Raegan’s family,” says Alex. If, ordinarily, we allow ourselves a few deviations, when Passover arrives, we eat strictly kosher and we follow traditional rituals, such as that of the Seder. »
Among Moroccans, the meat on the menu is unquestionably lamb. “However, on Passover, it takes on a symbolic dimension. Alex explains that Passover celebrates the liberation of the Jews from the slavery of the pharaohs. “Pesach means ‘to pass over; the Israelites and their last-born passed over death thanks to the blood of the Lamb spread over their gates, spared by the Angel of Death during the last plague of Egypt. The tradition therefore is that we eat lamb in memory of this significant event. “Even the soup served with meals contains it. “With us, no soup with matzah balls ; instead, we serve split pea soup with braised lamb,” says Alex.
Other dishes are also part of the Seder ritual: “The harosset, a puree made from a mixture of nuts, figs, dates, apples and red wine represents the mortar that the slaves prepared to build the pyramids. All the dishes are associated with events of the liberation of the Jewish people,” explains Alex.
He adds that, during this ritual, his father recites, while singing, the traditional prayers. It tells, especially for children, the story of the Exodus and explains the symbolic meaning of each of the dishes served at the meal.
Among Moroccan Jews only, the mimouna is celebrated, at 8e Passover, with a variety of desserts where the use of yeast is permitted after being banned for the past 7 days. The star of this table is the moufletta, a puff pastry made for this celebration. “During this evening, we knock on the doors of the neighbors to invite them to eat and we are also invited to their homes. We see people and we taste Moroccan delicacies. It’s such a happy time! says Alex.
Our two leaders will soon receive their families in their new home. They hope to keep their traditions alive and pass them on to their children.