Butter-braised leeks swapped for an allium hybrid created by Dutch breeder Hans Bongers mark the Los Angeles Times recipe tradition established by late restaurant critic Jonathan Gold.
- Sweet garleeks, developed by breeder Hans Bongers and distributed through Row 7, offer a bright flavor that resembles a cross between leeks and garlic.
- Home cooks can purchase sweet garleek at Whole Foods, Sprouts, Erewhon, and select farmers markets, though standard leeks work as a direct substitute.
Creamed leeks frequently disappear from holiday tables before the turkey or stuffing runs low. According to the Los Angeles Times, the dish started entirely by accident when the publication’s late restaurant critic Jonathan Gold tried preparing straw potato cakes stuffed with braised leeks for a dinner party.
Gold struggled to flip the potato cakes during preparation. Rather than discarding the ingredients, he broke apart the shards and served the filling on its own.
The impromptu side dish proved so popular among guests that it immediately became an annual Thanksgiving tradition. The Ochoa-Gold table has continued serving the creamed leeks every year, maintaining the practice eight years after Gold’s death.
This year brings a distinct variation to the classic preparation. The update incorporates sweet garleek, a newer allium hybrid that chef Dan Barber previously brought to Alex Weiser’s stand at the Hollywood Farmers Market.
Barber describes the hybrid as a love child between leeks and garlic. Skinnier than standard leeks, the vegetable works well when grilled for steak dinners or folded into creamed dishes.
Hans Bongers, an obsessive Dutch breeder, developed the hybrid. Distribution is handled through Row 7, the seed company co-founded by Barber.
Using sweet garleek allows home cooks to utilize most of the green stalk, adding vibrant color alongside the paler traditional leeks. The variety introduces a sharp brightness to the dish while preserving its heavy comfort-food profile.
| Ingredient | Developer / Source | Where to Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Sweet Garleek | Hans Bongers / Row 7 | Whole Foods, Sprouts, Erewhon, Farmers Markets |
| Traditional Leeks | Standard Produce | Grocery Stores Nationwide |
Shoppers looking to replicate the updated dish can find the hybrid alliums at major retailers including Whole Foods, Sprouts, Erewhon, and regional farmers markets.
Cooks unable to locate the hybrid variety can easily fall back on the original method. The all-leek version of the recipe remains fully intact and delivers the same rich flavor profile.
