Swiss Footwear Brand Navyboot Makes a Comeback via Ochsner Shoes

Swiss footwear brand Navyboot is returning to retail shelves on August 26, under the management of Ochsner Shoes, a subsidiary of Deichmann. Following the closure of its final standalone stores in 2021, the brand will relaunch with 60 new shoe models available across 30 Ochsner Shoes branches and online channels.

The Bottom Line

• Retail Relaunch: Ochsner Shoes is bringing 60 newly designed Navyboot items to 30 retail locations and digital storefronts beginning August 26.
• Corporate Lineage: The brand shifts from its historical peaks—including 40 stores and 100 million Swiss francs in revenue under founder Bruno Bencivenga and later owners Philippe Gaydoul and Globus—into a licensed brand model managed by Deichmann’s Swiss subsidiary.

Rebuilding a Premium Footprint via Retail Licensing

Firmenchef Claude Bucher outlined the commercial strategy to media outlets, noting that the company develops and manufactures the new inventory internally. The initial catalog of 60 models targets dual consumer segments: heritage buyers familiar with the historical label and younger demographics being introduced to the brand for the first time.

Here is the math on the positioning shift. At its peak in 2006, under the leadership of founder Bruno Bencivenga, the enterprise operated roughly 40 retail locations, employed about 350 staff members, and generated annual revenues of approximately 100 million Swiss francs. The product ecosystem extended far beyond footwear into apparel, leather accessories, and fragrances. By contrast, the iteration operates on a leaner distribution model: 30 retail points supported by an e-commerce channel, bypassing the heavy overhead of standalone flagship boutiques in prime high-street locations.

The Swissness Debate and Foreign Manufacturing Realities

The timing of the Navyboot relaunch coincides with acute industry friction regarding the legal definition of Swiss origin. Founded in Zurich in 1991, the brand historically traded on its geographical identity, complete with the word “Switzerland” emblazoned beneath its logo. Yet, manufacturing for the collection takes place in Spain and Portugal. This structural split between brand origin and production geography sits directly inside a broader national debate.

Regulatory frameworks governing domestic branding shifted notably when the Swiss Federal Council adjusted rules regarding the use of the Swiss cross. Major footwear players like running shoe brand On benefited from looser interpretations allowing domestic symbols on foreign-manufactured goods. However, industry peers have voiced sharp resistance. Roberto Martullo, CEO of footwear maker Künzli, publicly criticized concessions that dilute the value of the “Swiss made” designation, while other domestic brand leaders similarly warned against eroding manufacturing integrity for marketing convenience.

Corporate Evolution and Ownership Churn

To understand the current valuation strategy of Navyboot, one must examine its corporate history over the past two decades. After the Bencivenga family sold the business in 2008 to Philippe Gaydoul and his Gaydoul Group, the brand pursued aggressive premium positioning. A decade later, ownership shifted to the former Migros subsidiary Globus. Subsequent restructurings transferred the retail assets to Thomas Herbert and the Bayard family, who ultimately shuttered the remaining standalone storefronts and outlet locations.

Navyboot Historical Ownership and Operational Milestones

Era / Year	Key Owner / Operator	Operational Scale
1991–2008	Bruno Bencivenga	Peak expansion: ~40 stores, ~350 employees, ~100M CHF revenue.
2008–2018	Gaydoul Group (Philippe Gaydoul)	Continued premium expansion and lifestyle portfolio diversification.
2018–2021	Globus / Subsequent private investors	Store consolidation, footprint reduction, and eventual closure of standalone locations.
Present	Ochsner Shoes (Deichmann Group)	Licensed brand relaunch across 30 retail doors and online channels.

But the balance sheet tells a different story about modern retail survival. Operating independent lifestyle boutiques in prime Swiss commercial districts proved financially unsustainable under prior ownership groups. By housing Navyboot inside Ochsner Shoes’ established retail infrastructure, the Deichmann subsidiary minimizes fixed real estate exposure while leveraging centralized supply chains across the Iberian Peninsula.

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