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Nepal climber Nirmal "Nims" Purja has announced that he has climbed 14 mountains over 8,000 meters in the world in seven months. A superhuman record that sweeps the precedent established just under eight … years.
Nepal's Nirmal Purja claimed on Tuesday (October 29th) to have completed the climb of 14 mountains over 8,000 meters in the record time of seven months, making the imposing feat a new figure in speed mountaineering. .
"Mission accomplished!", Launched "Nims", his diminutive, in a message posted on his Facebook page from the top of Shishapangma. This Chinese summit of 8,027 m, which he reached with his team at 08:58 local, was the last of the "more than 8,000" he had to conquer.
The 36-year-old British special forces soldier set the superhuman deadline to climb these world's highest points – all located in the Himalayas – in just seven months from his arrival at the first summit. last April 23rd.
This sprint-marathon in "death zone" largely beats the previous record for the same performance – raise the 14 "over 8,000", using at least one additional oxygen. The latter was seven years, eleven months and fourteen days, and was held by the legend of the Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka.
Unknown to the little world of Himalayanism until recently, Nims has gradually attracted the attention of his peers and the media in recent months, as he conquered with phenomenal stamina and speed the highest mountains of the Earth .
Originally, many thought the company physically and logistically impossible, given the window of ultra-tight time that leaves no room for hazard or turn around. Before the first summits, "everyone laughed in my face", confided Nims to AFP before leaving for Shishapangma.
To achieve this physical prowess, "it's about trusting your abilities and you always have to have a positive state of mind, because sometimes things will go wrong." Plans will not work out the way you want them or you would like to think so, but even so, you can make the impossible possible, "he explained.
Its long-term run in a rarefied oxygen atmosphere began on Annapurna (Nepal, 8,091 m), which reached its peak on 23 April.
Without taking a breath, in lack of sleep, jumping from one base camp to the next by helicopter, climbing some mountains with a line without stopping at intermediate camps, Nims then chained the famous Nepali summits: Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) , Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m) and Makalu (8,485 m).
After a few weeks of rest, in July he attacked the five "8,000" of Pakistan, including the formidable K2 (8,611 m) and Nanga Parbat (8,126 m). At the end of September, he added Cho Oyu (China, 8,188 m) and Manaslu (Nepal, 8,163 m) to his wallet.
His "Project Possible" then came up against the closure of Shishapangma this season. The Chinese authorities finally issued him a special permit to go up there, the Nepalese government having pleaded his case.
Coming from a modest family in a village in northwestern Nepal, Nims spent 16 years in the Gurkhas units of the British army, which he recently left to launch himself body and soul into the mountains.
In the vein of athletes like the late Ueli Steck or Kilian Jornet, it is part of this wave of mountaineers whose speed is the hallmark. Express climbs that frown many purists of the mountain.
"Regardless of the style (extra oxygen, support of Sherpas, classic routes, helicopters between mountains, etc.) what he does is extremely impressive," greeted with AFP Alan Arnette, a blogger very followed on 'mountaineering.
"He's setting a bar that could take decades to be surpassed, if ever."
. (TagsToTranslate) Sports (t) Mountaineering (t) Nepal