2023-05-10 13:51:43
SOLENE LESCOUËT : “A FASHION THAT SLOWS DOWN”
Having cut her teeth at Chanel then Lanvin, Solène Lescouët, 28, is launching her eponymous brand in 2020. And makes rhyme couture et « no future »…
For the presentation video of your latest collection, The Tales of Solene, you have chosen the theme of dance. For what ?
Solene Lescouet: I wanted to take inspiration from a British film that I love: The Tales of Hoffmann (Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger, 1951). This film is inspired by opera and makes reference to classical dance ballet. I added a transformation effect, with more techno, more contemporary passages, all mixed with the punk of the haircuts, the tartan, and the energy.
The whole collection is in pink tones…
This color reminds me of the sweetness of youth, and the contrast with punk seemed interesting to me to work on.
The tartan pattern and the punk aesthetic are your trademarks.
Tartan is a real state of mind. I have always loved this fabric. It represents the punk side of my brand, but I love mixing it with other more chic fabrics…
What should fashion be used for?
It is a way of living, of behaving, and even of thinking. Getting a message across through a piece of clothing is the most interesting thing. But it’s also a way to trigger an emotion… be it joy, laughter, tears, or provocation!
The fashion of the future?
Maybe a more digital fashion, even if I love shows. And stronger pieces, you have to go back to the real basics of clothing, sewing for example. And above all, a fashion of the future would be a fashion that slows down.
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
” GO OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ! » : WALK IN PARIS
In 2013, Gary Neveu and dancer Léo Walk created Walk In Paris. Ten years later, it has established itself as the favorite brand of young creations.
Your brand in a few words?
Gary Nephew: A walker is a person who loves adventure, surpassing himself, and discovering what is best in him. Walk in Paris is therefore a state of mind: having fun and thinking outside the box!
What inspires your collections?
What surrounds us. We have a large community of young creatives that we involve in all other aspects of the brand. Léo has his dance company, La Marche Bleue, so we do videos, parties, festivals… It’s an integral part of the brand.
Where do you produce?
Ten years ago, we did everything in a hurry and we were on the made in China or Pakistani. In 2018, we started to research and we saw that a lot of quality streetwear was made in Portugal. Since then, almost everything has been done there.
Your favorite materials this season?
I would say jeans. It is a noble material, which ages well, and whose color evolves.
The usefulness of fashion?
As a teenager, I tried on a lot of different clothing styles, it allowed me to know who I was, and who I wanted to be.
Current projects?
We’re preparing a new jacket in collaboration with Schott, and a big party to celebrate the brand’s tenth anniversary this summer.
The future of fashion?
I hope fast-fashion will die! I think people are ready to think about their clothes as a long-lasting investment.
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
VINCENT GARNIER PRESSIAT : « BOURGEOIS… ET BDSM ! »
At 28, this former assistant to John Galliano at Margiela imposes his eponymous brand with collections chic and liberated…
What were the inspirations for this latest collection?
Vincent Garnier Pressiat: The film beautiful day (Luis Buñuel, 1967), a story of bourgeois who, exploring Paris, find themselves in brothels in Pigalle. Le Carmen, where I organized the February fashion week show, is a former brothel, well known as a party venue, late 19thth century. All this bourgeoisie came to free themselves there, in a sexy, borderline BDSM atmosphere!
And how would you define Pressiat in one sentence?
It’s… elegant, chic and provocative!
Pigalle’s choice?
When I arrived in Paris, I had a roommate here and I have to say that everything in this neighborhood inspires me… The somewhat boudoir side, the warm red lights.
A favorite subject?
I use vinyl a lot, and for this last collection, we worked on a velvet effect. It’s black, very deep, and of good quality, nothing to do with sex shop vinyl!
The origin of the fabrics?
Many come from destocking or from suppliers in Paris, but I also work with Korea, they have technical, innovative and quality fabrics. Afterwards, I do made in Francefor my suits, jackets and all that is haute couture, of course !
The role of fashion according to you?
It’s a tool to feel good, powerful and have self-confidence. It’s liberating.
The fashion of the future according to you?
We have to stop all this mass-market… Aesthetically, I believe in a return to something more elegant, more sustained…
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
ICHIYO TAGUCHI: “EMBRIDING OUR COMPLEXITIES”
Half-Japanese, half-Korean, the designer trained at Schiaparelli before going solo in 2021. The slogan of the Ichiyo brand? « Joy of being women ! »
The inspiration behind your latest collection?
Ichiyo Taguchi-Ichiyo: A Letter From… is inspired by the inherent contrasts of the feminine. These pieces recognize and celebrate its many facets. This collection is therefore an encouragement to embrace our complexities!
Your relationship to clothing?
Dressing up is like playing a role. When I choose outfits, I have fun imagining the lives of the different characters I embody.
Your favorite fabric this season?
I started using a fabric developed with a Japanese supplier, a georgette bonded (fine crepe fabric, editor’s note) and lace. I thought up the “Illusion jacket” with this fabric, a jacket where you think you can see all the construction details. To be honest, I’m obsessed with this fabric right now!
The made in France ?
We do 95% in Paris, and the rest in Europe. We guarantee quality know-how, while maintaining an ethical and ecological conscience. We mainly use deadstock materials and we also produce part of our production on demand to avoid surpluses.
The fashion of the future?
Timeless pieces with clothes that we would keep for life.
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
UMLAUT: “MIXING LEATHER AND FLUID FABRICS…”
Launched in 2020 by three friends, Eloïse Bombeau, Zélie Israel and Emma Panchot, Umlaut is committed against overproduction. Dresses or bustiers, each piece is timeless and… eco-responsible.
The inspirations behind your capsule collections?
umlaut : Our creative process always begins with the materials we find. Since we only work with recycled materials – end of series from fashion houses – this is what defines the type of materials and the range of colors for each capsule.
Your favorite subject combinations at the moment?
We like to mix leathers and fluid fabrics, especially silk. In the new collection, there are leather inserts associated with very fine summer wool sheets.
All is made in France ?
Yes, almost 100% in the Paris region. All our fabrics come from associations, start-ups or warehouses that collect them from the big houses. These fabrics are dormant, and can come from France as well as Italy, Japan or Portugal.
And the leathers?
Most of the time, the big French houses have them produced in Italy. At Umlaut, we never buy new leathers, but those doomed to abandonment. We only work with recycled materials.
The future of fashion according to you?
More upcycled brands. We have access to all these reels, we see how huge it is. All these brands that are launching and producing new materials, stop!
A hope ?
That crafts, which are extremely important in the quality of clothing, come back in force.
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
ALICE VAILLANT: “SUPER BLUR AND SUPER STRETCH! »
After working for Jean Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci, the 27-year-old designer stood out with Première Danse, an all-lace collection, toupees and ruffles…
You were a dancer at the Paris Opera before launching your brand in 2020. How do your clothes relate to dance?
Alice Vaillant : I spent almost twelve years in tights and leotards. I remember wearing small corsets, but being super free in the movements of the arms and legs. I love this contrast between super blur and super stretch, and it’s this duality that I try to recreate in my collections.
Your favorite subject this season?
The lace – or the strips of lace, more precisely. They are part of the brand codes. They come from Calais, mostly deadstock, and each band has a different size and design!
The house mantra?
When I think of pieces, I think about how we will be able to feel comfortable while being highlighted.
Vaillant, made in Europe ?
Yes, with 20-30% made in France. We have created a whole production circuit in the North, our lace factories in Calais, the dyeing factory, but also that of the prototypes. It is a circuit that we are in the process of improving because the more the quantities increase, the more it must be reinforced!
The fashion of the future according to you?
Lots of things need to be completely redesigned. Especially in the calendars of presentations, productions and sales sessions of the collections. It’s all connected, and that’s racing. It is difficult to get out of this system, but you have to start somewhere!
By Anna Prudhomme
Photos : Arnaud Juherian
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