This plant that grows with its feet in the water has long been an emblematic vegetable of Essonne. The local watercress is now a brand: “Le cresson de Méréville”. “A collective brand, which encompasses well beyond the Mérévillois, indicates Olivier Barberot, producer and president of the association which carries this project. We are already ten members. The objective is to communicate about our culture beyond our borders. And ultimately, to obtain an IGP, the Protected Geographical Indication. »
In the meantime, watercress will be celebrated all this Easter weekend at Mérévillois. From Saturday 8 to Monday 10 April, the 34th watercress fair will offer the public the tasting and sale of watercress products, as well as visits to watercress farms.
Essonne has long been the leading producer of this crucifer in France. “Out of around sixty cresiculturists spread across France, 24 are located in Essonne, says Olivier Barberot. Several of them in the Mérévillois sector, located in the Junee valley, but also in the Chalouette, Essonne and École valleys, such as near Milly-la-Forêt. »
This could have complicated the deal when choosing the name of the brand. “Initially, I leaned towards Essonne watercress, confides Mikaël Morizot, at the head of the Sainte-Anne watercress farm in Vayres-sur-Essonne. To encompass everyone and defend the identity of southern Paris. It should not be forgotten that watercress was grown for the first time at the Sainte-Anne cressonnière, in 1854. This then spread to Cerny, Janville and D’Huison Longueville. It was only 40 years later, from 1894, that cressiculturists settled in Méréville (Editor’s note: the former name of Mérévillois, a new municipality resulting from the merger in 2018 with Estouches). But we were advised to rely on the notoriety of Méréville watercress so as not to start from scratch. »
Cooked by many restaurateurs, including starred ones
Olivier Barberot confirms: “It’s a bit like salt from Guérande (Loire-Atlantique). Everyone knows that this does not only concern producers established in Guérande itself, but in a wider geographical area around it. It’s the same with watercress. This encompasses an entire area, which goes as far as Seine-et-Marne and Loiret with the commune of Autruy-sur-Juine. »
The brand has been officially registered with the INPI (National Institute of Industrial Property). In this process launched several years ago, cresiculturists are strongly supported by the Essonne departmental council, the region, the Gâtinais regional natural park and the urban community of Étampois sud Essonne (Caese), in particular Philippe Blaise, coordinator of the territorial food project of Sud-Essonne.
Even before being stamped as an official brand, Méréville watercress has enjoyed a solid reputation for decades. Many chefs, such as the multi-starred Yannick Alléno, Cyril Lignac, Thierry Marx or even Jean-François Piège put it or have put it regularly on the menu of their Parisian establishments. Just like many more local restaurateurs: Aymeric Dreux, the chef of Bouche à oreille in Boutervilliers, or Émilien Le Normand, chef of Les Coqs in Milly-la-Forêt.
One of the most nutritious vegetables
“I regularly deliver Le Doyenné,” says Mikaël Morizot. The restaurant which opened in Saint-Vrain was elected best table in France by Fooding in 2022 and won a green star in the 2023 Michelin guide. “It’s rewarding to be on the menu of such establishments”, confides the producer.
And that contributes to communicate on the watercress of Méréville. Good publicity also for the watercress from the Vayres-sur-Essonne producer, who supplied 60 liters (80 bottles) of watercress soup to the participants of the Paris Marathon on April 2. Something to perk them up, because according to an American study published last March, “watercress is the most nutritious vegetable among 47 vegetables tested” by researchers at William Paterson University in New Jersey.
Nutrients, vitamins A, C, E, K and B9, minerals, iron, calcium, potassium or even magnesium, watercress reduces blood pressure, improves digestion, strengthens the immune system, prevents chronic diseases and diabetes and reduces inflammation. So when it is grown in Essonne, it is even better!