2023-05-14 22:00:00
Woven textile structures, more commonly called “fabrics”, can be divided into two categories (weave fabric and jacquard fabric – due to their different warp yarn selection methods) and are divided into three main markets: clothing, furnishings and fabrics for technical use. A fabric is associated with the technical textiles market when the first of its functionalities is not aesthetics. Overall, the design and production approaches for these fabrics can be radically different depending on their use.
For the clothing market, the fabric is generally designed to be worn by the user for a fairly short period of time, which limits its lifespan from 6 months to 3 years. Clothing fabrics must be designed quickly, respond to stylistic trends and require minimum and sufficient quantities produced for the production of clothing available in different sizes and distributed in different points of sale.
For the furnishing market, the fabric is generally designed to dress individual interiors and collective living spaces either horizontally (bed and house linen, fabrics for seats and sofas) or vertically (curtains, curtains, wall hangings). Upholstery fabric is designed for longer or shorter lifespans depending on use: 5 to 8 years on average for fabrics for seats and sofas, and 2 to 5 years for terry fabrics for towels and sheets of bath, according to their use and initial quality. The majority of furnishing fabrics are not worn and therefore do not require regular maintenance, except for bed linen and towels in contact with humans. As a result, upholstery fabrics are designed to meet both strong stylistic criteria and functionalities specified in specifications guaranteeing the durability of the woven product over time. The use of standards makes it possible to certify the functionalities required by the uses of the furniture market. Depending on the surfaces to be covered, the quantities produced can be more or less large (from 100 meters to several thousand meters) in order to meet market needs.
For the market of fabrics for technical use, the predominant logic consists in identifying the most suitable solutions and meeting the various criteria of the specifications. Depending on the performance required to qualify a fabric for technical use, levels of protection must be achieved to allow it to be placed on the market, which very often meets the criteria specified in the ad hoc standards. The prototyping phase can last from a few weeks to a few years to identify the best solution meeting the combined requirements defined in the specifications of the requested fabric.
Thus, the approaches to designing a woven structure can be radically different depending on the type of use of the fabric and the standards associated with its market. The weaver (fabric manufacturer) will be able to adapt his production tool according to the logistical, economic, normative and environmental constraints imposed by the target market. The complexity of all these requirements combined can seem difficult to prioritize.
This article aims to specify the main parameters essential to the definition of a woven structure as well as an introduction to the theory of weaves. This makes it possible, initially, to apply the rules of geometric modeling following the observation of a fabric. The different definitions and their construction rules for the fundamental armors and some directly derived armors are also proposed. Finally, on the basis of a weaved fabric and a jacquard fabric, an analysis approach is proposed in order to guide the reader in the recognition and quantification of the different constituent parameters of a woven structure.
In this way, the reader uninitiated to woven structures will be able to better identify them, recognize them and define all the parameters essential to their design. This analysis and understanding tool will thus make it possible to better define the woven structures and thus promote a co-design approach in conjunction with the final weaver.
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