Dubai, United Arab Emirates (CNN) — Radiation from nail dryers can damage DNA and cause cancer-causing mutations in human cells, a new study has found, prompting women to wonder if adopting a gelish style is a good idea. Worth the risk.
Some dermatologists say the study findings, published January 17 in the journal Nature Communications, are not new when it comes to concerns about UV radiation from any source. In fact, the results underscore why some dermatologists are changing the way they get gel nails or stopping them altogether.
“The results contribute to the published data on the harmful effects of (UV) radiation, and show direct cell death and tissue damage that can lead to skin cancer,” said Dr. Julia Curtis, an assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Utah who was not involved in the study. .
“Tanning beds are listed as carcinogenic,” Curtis noted, and UV nail dryers are likewise mini-tanning beds for gel nails.
Ultraviolet light, a form of electromagnetic radiation, ranges in length from 10 to 400 nanometers, according to the UCAR Center for Science Education.
Ultraviolet A (315 to 400 nm), which is found in sunlight, can penetrate the skin more deeply and is commonly used in UV nail dryers, which have become popular over the past decade.
And while tanning beds use 280 to 400 nanometers, the spectrum used in nail dryers ranges from 340 to 395 nanometers, according to a press release about the study.
Study author Ludmil Alexandrov said: “If you look at the way these devices are being marketed, you would think they are safe, nothing to worry about, but as far as we know, no one has actually studied these devices and how they affect human cells at the molecular and cellular levels yet.” “.
The researchers exposed cells from humans and mice to ultraviolet light, and found that a 20-minute session led to 20 to 30 percent of the cells dying. Exposing them to this light three times in a row, for 20 minutes each, killed between 65 and 70 percent of the exposed cells.
The remaining cells suffered mitochondrial and DNA damage, resulting in mutations with patterns seen in human skin cancer.
Dr. Julie Russak, MD, a dermatologist and founder of the Russak Dermatology Clinic in New York City, said the study’s biggest limitation is that exposing cell strains to UV light differs from the study in humans and live animals.
“When we irradiate human hands, there is definitely a difference,” said Russak, who was not involved in the study. “The top layer of skin absorbs most of the UV rays. When you irradiate cells directly in a petri dish in the lab, it’s a bit different. You don’t have the protection.” the skin itself.It is also a very direct ultraviolet irradiation.
But Dr. Shari Lipner, MD, associate professor of clinical dermatology and director of the nail division at Weill Cornell Medical Center, who was not involved in the study, added that in addition to previous evidence, such as case reports of people who developed squamous cell carcinoma, the second most common form of skin cancer, , in combination with UV dryers, means that we should definitely “think harder about exposing our hands to UV rays without any protection”.
Reduce your risks
If you’re worried about getting used to the gel nail style and don’t want to give it up, there are some precautions you can take to mitigate the risks.
“Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with zinc and titanium around your nails, and wear UV gloves with cut ends when it’s time to expose your nails,” said Curtis, who doesn’t use gel nails.
Curtis recommends alternatives to gel nails, such as the new artificial nails available online, that don’t always require to be set with UV nail dryers.
As for Lipner, she said that some beauty salons use LED lights, which “are believed to emit no UV light or much less.”
Lipner gets her nails done regularly at the salons, which usually last from seven to 10 days, not in an effort to avoid UV rays but because she doesn’t like soaking her nails with the acetone involved in getting gel nails.
She added, “Regular nail polish dries with air, unlike gel nail polish, which needs to activate the polymers in it through UV lamps.”
If you get your nails done with gel regularly, Lipner recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist who can check your skin for signs of skin cancer and treat it before it turns into a serious problem.
Although there isn’t enough data for experts to know how often women can get gel nails without putting themselves at risk, Curtis recommends getting them only during special occasions.
Russak uses sunscreen and gloves when she gets her gel nails done, and added that applying a serum rich in antioxidants, like vitamin C, beforehand may also help limit UV exposure.
Experts advised people with a family history of skin cancer or sensitivity to light to be more careful in taking precautions. Whether or not you’re at greater risk, dermatologists urge caution.