Alpine Club: Crumbling Mountains | Austrian Alpine Club, 07/20/2023

2023-07-20 12:39:12

How are high speeds changing as a result of climate change?

Tyrol (OTS) – Severe storms like those of the past few days are becoming measurably more frequent as a result of the climate crisis. Especially the sensitive regions of the high mountains are severely affected by the effects. Global warming poses great challenges and risks for mountaineers and alpinists. What does this mean for mountaineering in the high mountains? The Austrian Alpine Club gives tips for the high-altitude tour season.

There have always been heat waves and dry spells, in summer and in winter. But that the earth is still warming up continuously and the effects of climate change especially in high mountains are felt more and more, is unfortunately a fact, not a fake. “We still have in our minds the images of the terrible ice fall on Marmolada, which killed 11 people. This year there was also a massive rock fall on the Flühhorn in the Silvretta in the local mountains. On the Dachstein, the Randkluft can only be overcome by experienced alpinists with the appropriate equipment. In the Mont-Blanc area, a bivouac box even fell down into the valley last summer in the course of a landslide, and the Goûter hut there was also closed in 2022 for safety reasons,” explains Gerhard Mössmer, mountain sports expert at the Austrian Alpine Club. The Tuoi hut below the small Piz Buin on the Swiss side, which had to be closed due to the risk of rockslides, has a similar experience.

How can mountaineers react to the changes before and during the tour so that they can continue to pursue their passion at a reasonable risk? The proven 3×3 matrix of the Alpine Club “Terrain – conditions – people“ starts with the three most important key factors.

1. The changed terrain

The consequences of global warming and the associated increased risks dramatically in the (still) glaciated regions. The zero degree limit is rising Permafrost in the high mountains dissolves, rockfall and rockfalls are the result. Thereby must ways blocked and routes can also be changed at short notice. As the glaciers melt, ascents are also becoming more difficult: rubble, mud and glacial lakes make the path more difficult or block it.

For example, access to the Hofmannskees is on the Heiligenblut side of the Grossglockner now almost impossible, since the Pasterze has melted into a lake in this area. Likewise, the ascent to the Großglockner via the normal route becomes more challenging due to the snowfall of the “Eisleitl”, which means that mountain guides only lead two guests. Formerly glaciated transitions, which were easily passable a few years ago, are becoming a problem. Also at creek crossings increased caution is required as levels rise amid high temperatures. Tip from Gerhard Mössmer: “Take enough time to find a suitable spot – usually upstream, where you can cross the stream safely.”

“We no longer receive information on the current situation from printed guidebooks or analog maps, as we used to, but rather from Internet portals such as alpenvereinaktiv.com or by calling the hut,” advises mountaineering expert Gerhard Mössmer.

2. Pay attention to the circumstances

stone and icefall become constant companions at full speed. Closely related to this is the season, in which high tours can be undertaken: “In the past, an ascent of the north face of the Eiger in wintry conditions was exceptional, but today it is an absolute must due to the prevailing risk of falling rocks in summer. Basically, the vast majority of combined tours now have to be undertaken from late autumn to spring, provided the routes still exist at all,” says Gerhard Mössmer.

In addition, the time of day to plan precisely and always keep an eye on the zero-degree limit. In this context, Mössmer notes: “The well-established saying ‘The early bird catches the worm’ is more important than ever. However, if it doesn’t freeze overnight, even the earliest ascent is of no use, because then glacial streams carry a lot of water for 24 hours and can hardly be crossed without artificial footbridges. Even crevasse bridges no longer support, the snow surface is difficult to walk on and we wade in the swamp on the glacier.”

Overall, these changes present mountaineers with new challenges and require careful planning and equipment. Winters with little snow and warm summers take their toll on the glaciers. For mountaineers they mean greater risk of falling into a crevasse, also in winter due to less snow cover. Bergschründe and Randkluften are more difficult or impossible to overcome. crevice zones change faster and blindly following a (possibly old) GPX track on the glacier is strongly discouraged on some tours.

Also undermined snowfields are a serious risk. As with crevices, there is an acute risk of break-ins: “These areas need to be recognized and avoided. Under certain circumstances, you even have to secure yourself here,” informs Gerhard Mössmer, who recently observed these dangers live on a high-speed course.

3. Man & Equipment

Not only the mountains, but also the equipment has changed: it has Steinschlaghelm once smiled at at full speed, it is standard today. Also a via ferrata set is already obligatory on some high tours due to installed via ferrata passages. In the meantime, some formerly glaciated crossings also have to be climbed abseiled which in turn requires the appropriate material (rappel device, etc.) and know-how. When overcoming bergschründen, edge clefts and ever steeper glacial upswings, one is sometimes glad of one second ice tool.

Careful climbingto avoid falling rocks in worn out flanks, is just as important as one appropriate climbing technique in the “stacked heap of rubble”. A prime example of this is the “Eisleitl” on Austria’s highest mountain, the Großglockner, which was formerly covered with firn and ice. Careful planning and obtaining up-to-date information are more important than ever.

Gerhard Mössmer gives a final outlook: “We can certainly continue to experience great days in the high mountains. However, we must become aware of the increasingly greater, objective dangers and face the fact that some tours are becoming more demanding, some will only be feasible in a small time window and some tours can no longer be undertaken at an acceptable risk.”