Danger of Glyoxylic Acid in Hair Products: Researchers Advocate for Withdrawal from Market

2024-03-23 07:00:02

Glyoxylic acid, a component of several hair products, including hair straighteners, is suspected of causing acute kidney failure. Researchers are advocating the withdrawal of the affected products from sale.

While the bill on hair discrimination is before the National Assembly, a scientific publication points to an ingredient introduced in several cosmetic products, to replace another… except that it is irritating and possibly carcinogenic: l glyoxylic acid. This, which therefore constitutes a danger, is in the composition of shampoos, hair straightening products and even styling lotions. Indeed, a team of French researchers revealed that it is associated with a risk of acute kidney failure.

Scientists tested this compound on animals, alerted by the case of a 26-year-old woman, with no medical history, but a victim of kidney damage. This patient experienced three episodes of acute renal failure, one year apart. Each episode took place shortly after straightening her hair in a hair salon in Marseille.

Professor Emmanuel Letavernier, who works at Tenon Hospital and Assistance Publique Hôpitaux de Paris, is one of the researchers behind this discovery. He spoke to the specialized media Medscape.

The study involved ten mice divided into two groups: one with application to the skin of a smoothing cream containing glyoxylic acid and the other with application of a gel without active product.
The mice developed extremely severe acute renal failure within 24 hours after application. Samples reveal the presence of calcium oxalate crystals in all renal tubules.

Similar cases exist elsewhere. An Israeli team recalls twenty-six patients suffering from acute kidney injury, after straightening in hairdressing salons. The presence of calcium oxalate crystals in the kidneys was confirmed by biopsy. The researchers suspected glycolic acid, another compound present in these products.

But a second study by Professor Letavernier’s team rules out the hypothesis. It did not induce crystal formation in the kidneys or renal failure. Furthermore, the cream used in the salon contained glyoxylic acid, but not glycolic acid.

The National Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health Safety (ANSES) was alerted. Researchers say in a letter that given glyoxylic acid’s potential for kidney toxicity, products containing it should be avoided and removed from the market.
More worrying, since kidney failure can be silent, they believe that cases of complications could be underdiagnosed.
They are even preparing a national investigation on this subject.

Among the signs that should alert you, we can mention irritation of the scalp, with nausea or vomiting, diarrhea, fever and back pain, after visiting a hairdresser or using straightening or styling products.

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