Midsummer is approaching, and as the 2023 Spring/Summer Paris Men’s Fashion Week comes to an end, this half-month fashion carnival that spans London, Florence, Milan, and Paris has officially come to an end. Coinciding with the European continent getting out of the haze of the epidemic, many brands chose to return to the offline catwalk. Elements such as pink, oversized silhouettes, gender ambiguity, full denim, and western cowboys, which were popular in previous seasons, are still regulars on the show.Martine Rose、Jacquemus And other brands have also exposed the latest joint names with sports manufacturers.
However, as the fashion week regained its former vitality, there were also many new bright spots on the show.E.g Dior Men A variety of outdoor shoes are created with reference to classic lasts such as rain boots, hiking shoes, and outdoor running shoes; after cowboy boots, another western element, “tassel”, has become the new favorite of designers; many brands choose to use underwear in their show styles. The exposure seems to imply that the hip-hop method of “Sagging” is about to return. This time, HYPEBEAST will take stock of the fashion elements that appear most frequently on the 2023 spring and summer show, and capture the fashion trends worthy of reference from the details.
Embossed Leather
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Louis Vuitton Consistently one of the most talked about brands at Paris Fashion Week, plus this season could be a continuation Virgil Abloh The menswear collection for the last season of the design language, so the show was the focus of conversation before it even started.In addition to sitting in the audience and singing the whole music Kendrick Lamarand a giant horn device on the model’s back, as well as a variety of jackets in carved leather.
One of the plaster white sculpted leather jackets has led to speculation, inspired by Kanye West its brand G.O.O.D. Music The cover of the classic album “Cruel Summer” is a tribute to the former DONDA Tribute to the creative director. LV, who came from leather goods, is not the first time that this process has been applied to its own clothing, but another DONDA “classmate” this seasonMatthew Williams Also tacitly take the sculpted leather jacket as Givenchy The main style of , inevitably leads to speculation, whether this will become a new trend in 2023.
Cowboy Fringe Denim Fringe
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The western cowboy style has been blown into the menswear show as early as the last few seasons.Off-White™、GmbH、Y/Project And other brands took the lead in incorporating cowboy boots, piping and other cowboy clothing elements into their designs.Today, the fringed element on denim leather jackets has also become the new favorite of this season. CELINE、Thom Browne、AMI、Maison Mihara Yasuhiro、FACETASM The flowing denim fringes can be seen on the catwalks of many brands.And this season happens to be themed on western cowboys Casablanca This element is also implemented in most shapes.
Organza Organza
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Organza Organza, a sheer sheer veil, commonly seen in wedding dresses or summer women’s gauze dresses. As the gender in fashion gradually blurred, its soft and light texture has also begun to be favored by menswear designers. Kim Jones continues to use this fabric to create a gentle and refreshing masculine image in this season’s Dior Men, while Rick Owens Organza jackets and robes convey another gothic vibe.
Sagging exposed panties
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this season Rhude The most unforgettable thing is its show style that exposes the underwear. And this kind of outer pants is lower than the waist, revealing the underwear mode, I believe you have seen it on American hip-hop singers. The wearing method is called “Sagging”, which originated in American prisons. In order to prevent prisoners from committing suicide, prisoners are not allowed to use belts, so that the pants that are too loose hang below the pubic bone. By the 1990s, it was respected by hip-hop culture and became a symbol of Gangsta temperament.
Although Rhude uses Sagging extensively, it is suspected of promoting the new underwear product line, but it is no coincidence that Givenchy and Thom Browne also surprisingly implement Sagging in the runway look.Furthermore, in VTMNTS Sagging can also be seen on the show of brands such as rookie Mr. Saturday.
Damaged Knit
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The resurgence of knitted items has been obvious in the past few seasons, especially off-season items such as knitted vests, which have become regulars on the spring and summer shows. In this season,JW Anderson、Kiko Kostadinov, Givenchy and other brands have knitted items of varying degrees of destruction on the show. Among them, JW Anderson hollowed out different parts to reveal the barcode at the bottom, which is quite interesting; Kiko Kostadinov exposed the knitted details of the neck and wrist that destroyed the wire drawing, which added a lot to the shape. Destruction of sweaters is not a new trend. From Number (N)ine and UNDERCOVER more than ten years ago to YEEZY and Balenciaga in recent years, you can see this style. Whether this element will re-emerge with a new design is worth looking forward to. .
Metal texture
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As one of the most commonly used visual textures on the occasion of the millennium, metallic colors are quite present on the show this season. Kiko Kostadinov splices sequins on the clothes, and the metallic color is also reflected in the makeup; Craig Green splices the down pieces wrapped in the metallic color, and has a full-body shape with a tin foil texture; VTMNTS silver coats, leather pants , shoes and other styles are impressive; the “fashion old urchin” who just resigned as a teacher at the Royal Academy of Arts in AntwerpWalter Van Beirendonck Metallic colors are also incorporated into this season’s clothing collections.
Jorts Denim Shorts
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Jorts, that is, denim shorts, is a compound word of “Jeans + Shorts”. Givenchy, JW Anderson and others have seen what is widely considered a minefield of over-the-knee denim shorts that were popular in hip-hop culture around 2000.and Prada、WOOYOUNGMI、KENZO、Fendi And other brands also presented denim shorts in different lengths and washes. This impression of the old style that was popular in the last century seems to be making a comeback.
Green Plants
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The European continent has stepped out of the haze of the epidemic, and the natural elements that symbolize the vitality of life have appeared at this node of waste in a timely manner. On the show this season, the appearance rate of green plant elements is extremely high.The most obvious of these is Loewe, directly cover the green plants on coats, pants, and sneakers.and Pleated Man Issey Miyake New green plant prints are added to the signature pleated fabric; Louis Vuitton covers the whole body with oil paintings painted with flowers and plants; FACETASM designs green plants as camouflage patterns with functional styles;marine greenhouse The plants are wrapped around the model as the finishing touch.
In this season’s fashion week, it can be found that many clothing styles that were popular in the early 2000s are making a comeback. Although high-end street and gender vagueness are still the main keynotes of men’s clothing design, they are now in an unprecedented era of individualism, which is very Cult aesthetic. The styles of Archive, Gorpcore, etc. are also popular. Go back to 1920, a hundred years ago, when the European continent was also suffering from a plague. But in the wake of the infamous Spanish flu, menswear fashion, which was once rigid and boring, began to take on a rapidly diverging evolution. After the fashion industry gets rid of the impact of the epidemic, what kind of development trend will it show in the 2020s?