Geneva. His lake. Its banks. Its watch fairs. From March 27 to April 2, more than 150 watch brands meet there. A spotlight eagerly awaited by those who have appeared in the last three years. In total, their number exceeds one hundred. If their future is still unwritten, the one who will disrupt watchmaking in the 2030s may be among them. Whether they are called Bausele, Awake, Bianchet or even Depancel, they seek to emerge, to exist and to assert their difference. But what is their contribution? What do all these micro-brands in start-up mode that have invaded Instagram, TikTok and specialized publications have in common?
The challenge is to get out of anonymity. In an economic context marked by soaring prices and a shortage of products from major brands, in high demand, the solution consists in offering a successful design at unbeatable prices. “These micro brands arrive with a basic movement, a sense of design and, above all, a good price, confirms Laurent Picciotto, founder of the Chronopassion boutique, specializing in cutting-edge watchmaking. A few years ago, at 500 euros, I had a hard time falling in love. Today, we have a real price-pleasure ratio. »
Paradoxically, these neo-watchmakers closely follow the contours of existing watchmaking. A good third of them have embarked on the niche of vintage diving watches, following the example of Jacques Bianchi or Laventure, with marginal aesthetic contributions. Another third is in the niche of independent fine watchmaking, made up of sophisticated movements and high prices.
Here even more than elsewhere, having a known name, like that of the Swiss Jean-Claude Biver, makes it possible to catch the eye. Ex-CEO and owner of Hublot, former president of the watch division of LVMH, the man is a watchmaking legend. He is part of the small circle of entrepreneurs who relaunched the mechanical watch in the mid-1990s. His brand has been eagerly awaited since he improvised the announcement of its launch on Swiss radio a year ago. “During my interview, my name was registered as a watch brand, he says. This name gives an advantage in durability. If I don’t put it on our watches, it will be more difficult for my successors. » The approach of this inexhaustible septuagenarian is of another dimension: his brand is a heritage that he will leave to his son and partner, Pierre Biver.
Behind all businesses, the word passion comes back. It seems all-purpose but alone sums up the strength of the watch, its appeal. “We are driven by a big passion, illustrates Sabrina Bergopsom, Marketing Director of Charles Zuber. We want to bring emotion with our exuberant execution. »
For all these newcomers, there is a desire to express their creativity. Many of them spent years serving others before taking off, like the Artime team. These six highly recognized professionals in their field have just unveiled their first model. “Our approach is to make applied art, explains Fabrice Deschanel, one of the founders. We are lucky to be in a field where you can be recognized when you do what you love. »