2023-11-19 04:03:00
In the bag and the perpetual surf of the restoration, there are always a few shells on the shore. New cuisine, molecular cuisine, revisited dishes come and then disappear according to an imperturbable cycle: innovation, classicism. They followed one another every ten or twenty years: nouvelle cuisine (1970), “Robuchonian” cuisine (1990), molecular cuisine (2000), bistronomy (2010). Today, how can I say… It goes in all directions: television cuisine, fusion cuisines, neoclassical, vegetarian, expeditious, nomadic, gonzo… Magnificent confusion where – similarly – each of us multiplies hybrid appetites. Imagine the work of the guides trying to put away the wonderful candids and the unscrupulous “discarders”. Also, regularly, when a restaurant appears very simple, without any detour, we rub our chin in front of so much first degree. It’s called Le Petit Sommelier, in front of Montparnasse station. You’ve probably walked past it a thousand times and told yourself that we won’t do it for you.
Burgundy wines: a very promising 2023 harvest
It’s a shame. Because this is a superb address of transparency and professionalism. At its head, Pierre Vila Palleja, sommelier in large houses (Ritz, Lasserre, Crillon), and in the kitchen a quicksilver, Paul-Arthur Berlan, who came to brighten up the dish menu. In this one there is a marvelous vol-au-vent of lightness and crispness. He recalls that the cuisine was like this: joyful eccentricity, saucy and tasty, handling appearances, the crunchy, the soft, the creamy. In a simple dish overflowing with candor, the very essence of French cuisine shines through: know-how devoted to products. The service is part of the same bistro joy, and a breathtaking wine list boasting more than 1,000 references including an armada by the glass gives the clientele a sort of disturbing joy, as if they have escaped from the past, saved from the waters and resting there, a few meters from us…
Le Petit Sommelier, 49, avenue du Maine, Paris (14th). Such. : 01 43 20 95 66. Count 45 euros.
1700367791
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