The day he had to unearth an engagement ring, Alexis Blez, then an employee of the multinational financial corporation JP Morgan, realized that his quest was akin to “an obstacle course”. The big jewelers lined up prohibitive prices. Young brands inspired him little. Antique shops seemed dusty at times. “I wanted the most beautiful jewel for an honest budget and no reference site could guide me. »
Alexis Blez emerges from his research with one ambition: “Become the benchmark for second-hand jewelery all over the world”, he said bluntly. 58 Facettes, the site he launched in 2020 with his partner, Eric Thevenet, today brings together more than 15,000 jewels for resale, from the Napoleon III period to the contemporary era, from the coffers of more than 150 professionals across France and Italy. In one click, depending on whether their wallet is more or less well hung, privileged customers can buy a Dinh Van wedding ring with square edges (€450), Pomellato earrings in rose quartz (€3,500), a unsigned necklace all in volutes of diamonds and green tourmalines (€59,000)…
In the “second-hand” landscape, 58 Facettes is not alone. For three years, competitors such as Castafiore, Caillou Paris, RivLuxe or Omneque have emerged, in France or abroad. All have smelled, of course, appetizing margins of growth, since sales of vintage luxury goods should increase by 10 to 15% per year until 2030, according to McKinsey. But also the global democratization of the second hand. “If a site like Selency manages to successfully resell furniture and decoration, why not do it with jewelry? »thought the founders of Castafiore, Charlotte Rey and Anne Borde.
When the precursor Collector Square (which also sells watches and leather goods) launched in 2013, “Giving a piece of jewelry that wasn’t new was devalued, on the theme: I’m not going to tell him it’s second-hand! From now on, it is assumed, claimed, as a Christmas and birthday present, and more and more, during engagement »observes its co-founder Osanna Orlowski, who says she sells 280 to 350 pieces per month, for an average price of around 3,000 euros.
“Every consumer now thinks of limiting the impact of their behavioradds Alexis Blez. Gold in jewelry, durability is maximum: gems are hundreds of millions of years old and gold only requires, at worst, a quick polishing. » Redeem, resell: customers exchange their treasures without complexing themselves, reassured by gold and stones, whose value is less volatile than other materials, and enticed by prices 10 to 50% below new.
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