New lawsuit targets textile giants accused of profiting from exploitation of Uyghurs

2023-05-18 06:03:11

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Several associations announced on Wednesday May 17 that they had filed a new complaint, after an initial classification, targeting clothing giants such as Uniqlo, Zara or Sandro… whom they accuse of having profited from the forced labor of the Uyghurs in China.

Misunderstanding. This was prompted last April the classification by the crimes against humanity unit of the National Anti-Terrorist Prosecutor’s Office (Pnat) of a preliminary investigation opened in June 2021 after a first complaint.

The plaintiffs accuse Uniqlo France (owned by the Japanese group Fast Retailing), Inditex (which owns the brands Zara, Bershka, Massimo Duti), SMCP (Sandro, Maje, de Fursac, etc.) and the shoemaker Skechers of marketing products manufactured wholly or partly in factories where Uyghurs are subjected, according to these associations, to forced labor. The Sherpa anti-corruption association, the Ethics on Etiquette collective, the Uyghur Institute of Europe (IODE) and a Uyghur woman who was interned in Xinjiang province are targeting the offenses of concealment of four crimes: crimes against humanity, genocide, aggravated servitude and trafficking in human beings in an organized gang.

With this second complaint with constitution of civil party filed Tuesday, May 16, they hope to bring to light ” the possible responsibilities of the clothing multinationals who would profit from the forced labor of the Uyghurs for the manufacture of their products “. According to them, “ one in five cotton garments could be tainted by Uyghur forced labor ».


This complaint with civil party, filed Tuesday, May 16, should make it possible to obtain the appointment of an investigating judge.

« One out of five cotton garments ” concerned ?

The plaintiffs also believe that these companies do not justify sufficient checks on their subcontractors. Their lawyer, Me William Bourdon hopes the “ recognition of competence » French justice « on the basis of concealment of crimes against humanity ». « Textile companies will be held accountable for having knowingly enriched themselves, at the cost of the most serious international crimes, against a facade of ethical communication “, he added.

At the time of the first complaint, the four groups had contested any use of forced labour. Contacted by AFP during the classification without follow-up, the SMCP group had indicated that it had “ always refuted with the greatest firmness these accusations “and considered that the decision” (was) following the withdrawal in October 2022 of the name of the SMCP group and its brands of the Australian NGO’s report.

In addition to these four names, other major groups (Nike, Adidas, Shein, etc.) are targeted by comparable charges. Washington and several countries refer to a “genocide” against the Uyghur Muslim minority and the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights refers to crimes against humanity. These accusations are rejected by Beijing, which presents the re-education centers denounced by Westerners as vocational training centers intended to combat religious extremism and ensure social stability.

>> To read also: Xinjiang: laboratory for the high-tech tracking of Uyghurs

(With AFP)


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